It doesn’t suffice to describe Domaine la Bouïssiere as the premier producer of Gigondas: This is one of the reference-point domaines of the entire Southern Rhône Valley. Perched high in the foothills of the Dentelles de Montmirail, the jagged mountain range that dominates France’s Vaucluse region, this pioneering property discovered something important about the Southern Rhône terroir—altitude matters. In the 1960s, Antonin Faravel became a local legend in Gigondas when he climbed higher than anyone else would dare, carving his vineyards from dramatically steep limestone cliffs reaching to elevations of 500+ meters. He knew instinctively that he’d get the plushness and ample body Southern Rhône reds are known for, but also the acid balance and tension so few of them achieve (especially these days). I’ll repeat the key word here: tension. The greatest reds of Châteauneuf-du-Pape manage it, and so does this 2021 from Thierry and Gilles Faravel, Antonin’s sons. It’s another showstopper that must not be missed.
As we’ve seen vintage after vintage, this wine lands at the perfect point on the Rhône Grenache ripeness scale, right in its red-fruited, brightly perfumed sweet spot, right before more maturity would bring darker notes of liqueur and black licorice. A dollop of 25% Syrah adds backbone and spice to a wine that caresses the palate rather than bludgeoning it. It is as dramatic and memorable as the iconic mountain range that graces its label.
That label, in fact, really says it all: Rather than put a picture of their winery on the bottle, the Faravels want you to know where the character of their wine really comes from—and there is indeed a mineral underpinning to this wine that is often missing in the ultra-ripe modern-day produce of the Southern Rhône. There is also that rare look at what might be called the “Pinot side” of the Grenache grape: the more perfumed expression found most famously in the wines of Château Rayas. Ultimately, the inclusion of Syrah in this Gigondas takes it in a different direction, but there’s no question that Bouïssiere’s high-elevation vineyards—and old vines—produce fruit of exceptional balance.
The western foothills of the Dentelles de Montmirail are where most of the key villages of the southern Rhône are located, including Gigondas, Vacqueyras, and Beaumes-de-Venise. Antonin Faravel worked at the legendary Domaine Pierre Amadieu in Gigondas for more than 30 years, passing along his incomparable knowledge of the local terroir to Thierry and Giles. Their pioneering “Grand Bouïssiere” vineyard in Gigondas was planted between 1963 and 1966, much of it on terraces to combat the steep pitches of the slopes. In addition to being one of the highest-elevation sites in Gigondas, it has a northwestern aspect, which mitigates some of the sunlight intensity. So, while there is no shortage of ripeness and intensity in the Bouïssiere Gigondas, it is all in balance. It has energy, enough to “carry” its elevated alcohol with ease.
Then there’s the texture, which evokes sunny, sultry, “Mediterranean” France: This ’21 is voluptuous and ready to drink, but should continue to evolve over the next 5-7 years if kept well. Decant it for 30 minutes before serving in Bordeaux stems and you’ll see a wine with a deep ruby-black core moving to magenta and pink at the rim, with perfumed aromas of wild red and black berries, kirsch, raspberry, dates, licorice, lavender, mint, warm spice, scrub-brush, and dusty earth. It is powerful and nimble at once, an amazing feat that only a few southern Rhône reds manage to pull off consistently. Keep it on the cool side (60 degrees) and serve it with something that speaks to its southern French origins. We’re attaching an oft-shared lamb recipe to pair with this bottle, because why mess with perfection? Enjoy!
