Bonus Burgundy incoming! We kicked off the day with some value-laden Bourgogne Rouge, and now we really kick it up a notch with Domaine d'Ardhuy’s Haut-Côte de Nuits Rouge Monopole "Clos des Langres.” This is one of those hidden gems Burgundy drinkers dream of discovering: It hails from a single, special lieu-dit only a select few even know of, famed for its ability to produce next level juice despite its location well off the Côte d’Or’s beaten path. Spicy and earth-driven like great Nuits-St-George to its north, silken and poised like Corton to the south, “Clos des Langres” is a truly singular experience. There’s only one domaine to try it at though, and that’s Domaine d’Ardhuy. Indeed, despite owning land in no fewer than five Grand Crus, the Ardhuys prize “Clos des Langres” as their greatest viticultural asset. Put simply, “Clos des Langres” is Premier Cru quality hidden behind a very humble appellation. Do not miss this, Burgundy lovers!
Perhaps the biggest reason “Clos des Langres” isn’t a household name is the fact that it’s located in the substantially less glitzy Haut-Côte de Nuits appellation. These are the higher elevation vineyards that surround the Côte d’Or (“Haut Côte” literally translates to “high slopes), where for much of Burgundy’s history the wines have been overtly rustic, even under ripe. But as vintages have gotten warmer and warmer, the Haut-Côte has proven to be the next frontier for producers who prize Burgundy’s elegance above all else. The d’Ardhuy family is perfectly situated then, having in “Clos des Langres” one of the few vineyards in the whole appellation with anything like name recognition. The Clos sits almost dead center between the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune, on a gentle south-east slope over brown limestone. Vines have grown in these three hectares for almost fifteen centuries, originally planted by Cluny monks. In the mid-20th century, the d’Ardhuy family took it over, and it’s been the crown jewel of their estate ever since; their home and winery are located adjacent to the clos and it serves as the beating heart of their operation.
Domaine d’Ardhuy began in 1930 when Pierre André started a winemaking and negociant project. He hired one Gabriel Liogier d’Ardhuy to manage the vineyards and make the wine, and eventually Gabriel married Pierre’s daughter Eliane. Upon Pierre’s passing, the estate transferred to Eliane, and the domaine we know today was born. It’s a sizable operation, just over 38 hectares spread from Gevrey-Chambertin to Puligny-Montrachet. The estate is now headed by Mireille d’Ardhuy, helped along by her six(!) sisters. Since 2012, they’ve farmed organically and biodynamically, emphasizing manual plowing of the vineyards and meticulous hand harvesting. In the past the wines were a bit heavily oaked, but they’ve throttled that back and now produce supremely finessed reds. Their 2021 “Clos des Langres” is a case in point.
Blind, this vintage of “Clos des Langres” could fool anyone into thinking they’ve got Premier or even Grand Cru Burgundy in front of them. There’s incredible complexity on display in the nose – notes of wild berries, cherry pit, violets, crushed rocks, tobacco, fresh mushroomy earth, and black tea. There’s a hint of warm spice, possibly from oak, but it’s beautifully integrated. The palate is silken yet svelte, sweet fruit tones enhanced by a rich mid-palate texture before a wash of polished acid leads into the spicy finish. There’s amplitude and volume on display, but elegance and breed rule the day here. In a few years, we’ve no doubt this is going to be some truly profound stuff. Grab a six-pack and learn just how much the Haut-Côte has to offer!
