Even casual SommSelect readers have probably noticed that the words “Champagne” and “Mesnil” are regularly side-by-side when we talk about our favorite discoveries from the holy land of sparkling wine. It’s no secret that we are obsessed with this special terroir in the heart of the Côtes de Blancs—Chardonnay’s sweet spot—but with good reason: Blanc de Blancs Champagne reaches its true pinnacle here. And to hammer home the point, we have a stunningly opulent, elegantly framed, dripping-with-minerality bottle of sparkling nirvana for you today. Aptly named “Jardins du Mesnil,” this vibrant, shimmering gold beauty from star grower André Robert effortlessly encapsulates everything we love about Mesnil. It truly seems to have sprung from a garden in paradise, especially if your paradise is luxuriously textured Champagne from rarefied terroir. Don’t miss out!
Given our years-long obsession, you may be surprised to learn that Le Mesnil-sur-Oger was only elevated to Grand Cru status in 1985. Although, by that time, it was a simple formality because most vignerons were already in agreement that this was one of the finest terroirs in all of Champagne. As Champagne geeks know, this village is effectively 100% devoted to Chardonnay, all of it Grand Cru. The village’s east-facing slopes, sheltered by thick woodland on the hills above, are perfect for ripening Chardonnay that maintains racy acidity and beautiful, high-toned aromatics. Champagne geeks will also know that one of the most famous vineyards here is “Les Chétillons.” With that in mind, of the four parcels blended into André Robert’s “Jardins du Mesnil,” three are just a few minutes’ walk from Chétillons, and the other is in Chétillions itself!
So how did Champagne André Robert gain access to these distinguished sites? The family has been farming, living, and growing grapes here for five generations. Although the crafting and distribution of their own label didn’t occur until 1962, it didn’t take them long to find a groove: they were already equipped with the finest real estate, elite viticultural know-how, and a hand-carved chalk cellar in the village of Mesnil. But it is fifth generation proprietors, Claire Robert and her husband Jean-Baptiste Denizart, who have taken all that exquisite raw material and rocketed this estate into the top tier of Chardonnay focused growers in Champagne.
“Jardins du Mesnil” is sourced from the family’s top four Chardonnay parcels in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Yields are extremely low and the grapes are allowed extended hang-time on the vine to ensure they are bursting at the seams come harvest. After a manual pick and sort, the grapes are whole-cluster pressed into 70% old French barrels and 30% steel tanks, where a natural, ambient-yeast fermentation begins. Following fermentation the wines are aged on their lees for an additional nine months before bottling and beginning the long, slow secondary fermentation. After four years of bottle aging, with regular lees contact, they are disgorged and a very small dosage of four grams per liter is added. All this additional aging, including in oak barrels, is what leads to the broad, creamy, golden luxuriousness of the “Jardins du Mesnil.”
The richness, viscosity, and vinous nature of this sparkling masterpiece are best served in a Burgundy bowl at a cool 48-50 degrees, where the pale, shimmering platinum-gold hue and perfect perlage will wow even the most jaded Champagne enthusiast. And then get ready for Grand Cru Mesnil perfection on the nose: ripe apricots, creamy apples, citrus blossoms, lemon curd, brioche, toasted hazelnuts, grilled pineapple, and crushed rock. The palate is ripe, expansive, and mineral, with a bevy of opulent orchard and stone fruits inside a filigreed shell constructed of citrus peel, sea salt, and chalk. If you want texture, length, and broad vinous power in your Blanc de Blancs, get ready for a new year revelation!
