Today, the Brovia estate is run by fourth-generation sisters, Cristina and Elena Brovia, along with Elena’s husband, Alex Sanchez. The family’s pride is its enviable collection of top vineyard sites, all of them organically farmed and most located in the village of Castiglione Falletto: Perhaps the best-known is “Villero,” a southwest-facing cru known for powerful, brooding wines, but there’s also the well-known “Rocche” and “Garblèt Sué” (a.k.a. “Bricco Fiasco”) sites. In the village of Serralunga, the Brovias farm a piece of the “Brea” vineyard, called “Ca’Mia,” and the family bottles their four individual “crus” separately and releases them as the estate’s premium-priced, top wines. They also produce an iconic blend, or “Classico,” and a whole range of more entry level wines that all seek to showcase the special terroir of the family’s vineyards.

“Villero” is arguably the most important cru in Castiglione Falletto, thanks not only to this powerfully structured beauty from Brovia but from Vietti’s similarly long-lived benchmark from the site. Facing southwest, with soils combining marl and sandstone, this is the vineyard that produces the wines with the most longevity and breed—truly operatic Baroli for the most special occasions. Of all the crus, this one will require the most patience, but whenever you do pop a cork be sure to give it a good decant and serve at 60 degrees in your best Burgundy stem. A bevy of black cherries, kirsch, currants, bitter chocolate, cinnamon, espresso, orange peel, tar, dried rose, and meaty earth will envelop you in a warm, Nebbiolo hug. Serve with the very old-school Piedmontese filet mignon recipe above and you’ll have a meal fit for royalty.