Technically, a wine labeled ‘Cava’ can be produced in several different regions, but Penedès, on Spain’s northern Mediterranean coast, is its spiritual home. The climate is Mediterranean, the soils a favorable mix of limestone (key in preserving acids), sand, and clay, and Cava sparklers are crafted in the traditional ‘Champagne’ method. The traditional grapes used for Cava are arel-lo (cha-RAY-yo), Macabeu, and Parellada.

While Cava is known for having many industrial-scale producers, Avinyó is the artisanal, organic opposite. The Esteve family traces their roots in Penedès back to the 16th century, and today they farm roughly 40 hectares of estate-owned vines according to strict organic protocols. Anchoring the operation is the family’s historic traditional farmhouse, called Can Fontanals.

The wine is made from 60% Macabeo, 25% Xarel-lo, and 15% Parellada from organically-farmed estate vines planted from 1945 to 2017 at Can Fontanals. The base wine then ferments in temperature-controlled stainless steel. After cold stabilization, the wine begins its secondary fermentation in bottle in March. It is then aged 18 months to 24 months on the lees before being disgorged on demand. Dosage is 6 grams/liter.

An appealing mix of depth, complexity, and mineral-etched precision. It displays a yellow-gold core moving to silver at the rim, with a delicate mousse and ripe aromas of green apple, pear, salted lemon, raw pastry dough, chopped nuts, anise, white flowers, and wet stones. There is lots of ripe fruit and a pleasing palate-coating texture, then it buttons up nicely on the mineral-laced finish.