Over the past few decades, Oregon has become a hotbed for groundbreaking, globally worshipped Pinot Noir, but once you consider that 200 million years of tectonic shifts, volcanic eruptions, and partial ocean cover are responsible for Willamette Valley’s ancient tapestry of rich soils, these “New World” wines don’t feel so “new” anymore.
Even more exciting, this renowned region is enjoying a quality high point with each passing day which begs the question: “Is Willamette Valley the modern-day mecca for exquisite Pinot Noir?” Elk Cove’s “La Bohème” answers that with a resounding yes! Laced with rich red/blue fruits and a mineral-built backbone, this luscious, classically structured, power-packed gem isn’t afraid to go toe-to-toe with 1er Cru Burgundies—while leaving them shaking in their boots with its ego-shattering $45 price tag. So, whether decanting this luxurious beauty now or cellaring for consumption in 5-10 years, we’re certain any and all diehard Burgundy appetites will be properly sated by today’s sensational single-vineyard Pinot Noir.
Willamette Valley’s best Pinot Noir mirrors the elegance, finesse, and age-worthiness of Burgundy combined with more aromatically explosive and brightly ripened fruit. Once the region had been extensively soil-mapped, in 2002 the official establishment of six sub-AVAs (Chehalem Mountains, Dundee Hills, Eola-Amity Hills, McMinnville, Ribbon Ridge, and Yamhill-Carlton District) helped define the region’s vast capacity for wide-ranging expressions of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. After all, it got the approving nod from Burgundy heavyweight Veronique Drouhin when her family erected an outpost here with Domaine Drouhin Oregon back in 1988. It didn’t happen overnight, but other intrepid Burgundians followed suit. In 2013, Jacques Lardiere (Maison Louis Jadot) created Resonance Wines and a year later, Jean-Nicolas Méo (Méo-Camuzet) partnered with music mogul Jay Broberg to form Domaine Nicolas-Jay. More recently, Champagne House Henriot purchased a major stake in Beaux Freres, a culty boutique winery established 30 years ago and Dominique Lafon has consulted on several projects in the Willamette Valley for years. In short: This is the place to be!
Joe and Pat Campbell were key players in Willamette’s historic first decade of winegrowers with the installation of the first vines for their Elk Cove estate in 1974 (now the Yamhill-Carton AVA). The ambitious, hard-working couple purchased an abandoned fruit orchard, had it cleared, and began to install the original vineyard while living on the property in a trailer with their small children. The existing homestead barn was converted into their first winery and a family home was eventually built from reclaimed wood. Joe, an ER physician, continued working nights while Pat managed the day-to-day business and they both logged long hours in the vineyards and making the early wines. At the time, there were less than ten wineries in Oregon.
One of those “trailer” kids was Adam Campbell. Since climbing aboard and eventually taking over the winemaking duties in the late ‘90s, he’s guided Elk Cove’s emergence as one of Willamette’s iconic estates. Currently, he oversees six sprawling vineyard sites, all sustainably farmed and rigorously maintained. As of 2017, all Elk Cove wines are fully estate grown. Today’s wine comes from their “La Bohème” vineyard, planted in 1985 to grafted selections of the best Pommard clone cuttings from the original estate vineyard. The picturesque, 20-acre site is steep, faces west, and overlooks the winery and the coast range mountains, sitting at 800 feet—one of the highest vineyards in the valley. It’s planted in “Willakenzie” soils composed of heavy marine sediment with shallow sandstone topsoil that’s well-drained and yields barely two tons per acre of compact, tiny-berry clusters. All the fruit is hand-harvested and sorted before it lands at the gravity-flow winery, then fermented in small, temperature-controlled, open-top steel tanks. The grape must is punched down by hand twice daily then aged for 10 months in French oak, 26% new. Only the very best barrels are selected for the final blend in order to exemplify the lush, silky profile of “La Bohème.”
In the glass, this 2018 “La Bohème” displays a dark ruby red with magenta emerging as it moves toward the rim. Alluring scents of black cherry, violets, spicy raspberries, espresso, candied florals, sweetbriar, and warm earth dominate the bouquet. The supple palate is silky smooth with velvety tannins holding vivid flavors of sweet cherries, blueberries, black tea, and spicy mocha. A smoky mineral note echoes throughout the vibrant mouthfeel and the impressive, long finish is marked with welcomed, gently woven tannins and bursting acidity. Served at 60 degrees in Burgundy stems, its striking similarity to a young, powerful, warm-vintage Cote de Nuits red is truly remarkable. Built for both immediate pleasure and a beneficial cellar term of 10 years, this superb vintage of “La Bohème” exemplifies Elk Cove’s decades-long command and capture of Yamhill-Carlton’s terroir.
