It’s extremely fitting that the Vulkanland sounds like a place straight out of folklore because today’s wine, quite simply, is hard to believe. Truly, there is no other wine on earth that can mimic Herrenhof Lamprecht’s “Buchertberg Weiss” and a quick but head-spinning overview will explain why.
First, and most shockingly, it was hand-crafted with more than
100 different grape varieties, all of which have been 100% Certified Organic from the beginning. Second, it saw a brief maceration, an all-natural fermentation, and 18 months of aging in large neutral barrels. In Layman’s terms: if this wine doesn’t get you excited, then we’re operating on different wavelengths. It’s a rare chance to experience something of this peculiarity and distinction—so rare that I can confidently say a wine like today’s is a “first” for me. So what’s it taste like? Like the army of grapes that make up the wine, it’s hard to list everything, but I will say it’s an incredibly vibrant, deeply textured gem that erupts with multiple dimensions of exotic fruit and minerality. The jaw-dropping purity from organic farming and the wizardry of infusing 100+ unique grapes into one bottle allows for a wholly unique flavor profile that enters the realm of fantasy. For what it’s worth, if you purchase today's 2016 “Buchertberg Weiss,” know that you’ve earned my respect because this bottle is built for the adventurous wine seeker. Enjoy!
Deep in Vulkanland—the southeastern fringe of Austria, near Slovenia’s border—the now-defunct Vorau Abbey stands majestically. Centuries ago, it was buzzing with ecclesiastical activity and wine, too. Monks long planted the nearby hillside to grapes, but the land became all but neglected towards the end of the 1800s. Today, the Lamprecht family owns this historic site and after Gottfried graduated with a horticulture degree from the University of Vienna, he went to work. His grand epiphany was to revive these old hillsides with a colorful collection of grapes in a “Gemischter Satz” fashion. Essentially, his vineyards are planted to intermixed varieties—over 100 of them! But this isn't some quirky, experimental science project, this is a revival of ancient methods: back when the Abbey was functioning, virtually all vineyards were planted in this nature!
So, in 2006, he began planting one hectare of vines per year, most of which were obscure, indigenous varieties that had nearly been forgotten. He calls the hill that holds his dizzying lineup of vines “Buchertberg” and went so far as to deem it as its own appellation: ABC, or Appellation Buchertberg Contrôlée—no, this is not officially recognized, but it’s trademarked!
Today, he oversees nine hectares of vines and operates with regard to a self-written “charter” that essentially guarantees the following: the place of origin, organic farming, promotion of biodiversity, restricted yields, spontaneous fermentation, no additives, long lees aging, no fining/filtering. While this 2016 “Buchertberg Weiss” does contain more than 100 different grapes, there are some big contributors, like Weissburgunder, Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling, Grauburgunder, and Furmint. The organic, co-planted grapes spontaneously fermented together and macerated briefly (about 36 hours) without any temperature regulation. From there, the wine was left in large barrels, on its lees, for 18 months of aging. It was bottled with the tiniest addition of sulfur.
Despite the sheer number of grapes in this wine, Gottfried himself will tell you this is a clear expression of his “Buchertberg” terroir. And, although it is bursting at the seams with rich fruit and savory flavors, there is a distinctive mineral note and subtle complexities that make it impossible to argue with him. You’ll pick up on creamy layers of ripe pear, kaffir lime, yellow apple, melon skin, pineapple, and golden raisins before a cascade of acacia, dandelions, honeysuckle, wild herbs, citrus blossoms, exotic spice, and lees roar out. For holding a moderate 12.5% ABV, this medium-bodied wine sure does punch above its weight class: it delivers wave after wave of intense fruit and atomized minerals before finishing with a mouthwatering savory component. For this, you must break out your largest Burgundy stems and allow a minimum 30-minute decant before taking your first sip. Enjoy around 50 degrees and invite all of your adventure-seeking friends over because it doesn’t get more exciting than this!