As the best wine importers will tell you, there’s no better way to discover new gems than to ask a respected producer whose wines he drinks when he’s not drinking his own. This is how the wines of ascendant Burgundy talent Étienne Julien made their way to us: One of our best Burgundy importers was tasting with Emmanuel Rouget, and, given Rouget’s reputation (he’s the nephew and protégé of the late, legendary Henri Jayer), was keen to hear Rouget’s take on up-and-coming producers.
Domaine Julien was enthusiastically recommended, the importer tracked them down, and, not surprisingly, the wines were phenomenal—and, because they were (and are still) relatively unknown, extremely affordable. We offered the 2013 vintage of today’s wine about a year ago—to rave reviews from customers—so we were keen to see what Julien would do in 2014, a superior vintage by most measures. I anticipated something serious, but when I first opened the wine the aromatics were muted, so I decanted it and set it aside, wondering what would come of it. About an hour later, it blossomed into what I was expecting, with perfume reminiscent of Chambolle-Musigny/Vosne-Romanée and a beautiful core of fruit on the palate. It’s a textbook example of how younger Burgundian wines often need an hour or two of oxygen to show their best, and if you are patient, you will be stunned by this wine’s evolution. Grab some of this before more Burgundy lovers discover this under-valued label. It will deliver tonight and for many years to come.
Although new to the United States, Domaine Julien’s roots date to the late-1800s when François Xavier Julien first purchased land in Comblanchien and Nuits-Saint-Georges. The estate was expanded after World War II by François’ son, Armand, and grew even more under his son to its current 10.5 hectares. These plots stretch from Eche?zeaux to Aloxe-Corton. Today, fifth-generation Étienne Julien has taken the reins and successfully maintained the precise style of the domaine while promoting a more organic philosophy in the vineyards.
Domaine Julien’s Côte de Nuits-Villages hails entirely from the family’s historic vineyards in the southern village of Comblanchien, which is nestled between the town of Nuits-St-Georges and the grand hill of Corton. Offering fascinating history as well as terroir-driven wines, Comblanchien was a seat of the French Resistance during World War II and was also the source of fine marble that was used to construct such famous landmarks as the Paris Opera. While many Côte de Nuits-Villages bottlings are typically a blend throughout the appellation, Domaine Julien offers a unique sense of place by using fruit only from the small commune of Comblanchien, just outside Nuits-Saint-Georges.
Etienne runs on low yields that reward him with pure Pinot Noir of maximum concentration. Combine that with vines ranging from 20-90 years old and clay-limestone soils from the Jurassic period and you have terroir-rich grapes with expression. Like me, you’ll start wondering why Comblanchien doesn’t yet have their own AOC. Etienne’s vineyards are farmed “lutte raisonée” and hand harvested fruit is meticulously sorted twice. After 100% destemming, a nearly two week fermentation was triggered by indigenous yeasts. The wine then aged for two years in a mixture of tank and French oak (25% new) before bottling.
Julien’s 2014 Côte de Nuits Villages displays a highly reflective dark ruby core moving to slight garnet tones on the rim. The nose is reticent without air, but after an adequate decant, it explodes with wild strawberry, black cherry, persimmon, dried orange peel, damp leaves, black tea, forest floor, wild herbs, and slight accents of leather. On the palate, the wine is medium-plus in body with a sweet core of wild berries, wet flowers, and crushed stone that all leads into a long, savory finish. If drinking now (and you should), DECANT THIS WINE for a minimum of one hour. Keen collectors should stow a few bottles away for several years, as the true magic for quality Burgundy happens six years after the vintage and beyond; it will age gracefully over the next 10 if cellared properly. Enjoy around 55-60 degrees in Burgundy stems alongside a slow-roasted pork shoulder and toast your smart purchase. Cheers!
