When we offer “entry-level” wines on SommSelect, it’s typically an obscure label that hasn’t yet gained mass-momentum on the secondary markets; hence the affordability. These are flavor-packed, in-the-know wines that exceed their dollar value by miles, and passing these new discoveries on to you is why we love our job.
Occasionally, we stumble across a wine that retains an affordable price and shows off a flashy name—two in today’s case: Domaine Labruyère of Moulin-a-Vent and Jacques Prieur of Meursault. When I was in Europe this past year with the Director of Family Estates, Edouard Labruyère, we tasted the most recent vintage of Jacques Prieur’s legendary Grand Cru Montrachet; after easing into conversation, he asked me to try a new project he formed in 2013—a Bourgogne Rouge from his Labruyère-Prieur Sélection label (which he says sees as much attention to detail as Jacques Prieur’s top red Grand Cru Musigny). It’s true, you never know what you're going to get in the wide-reaching appellation of Bourgogne, but when you have an elite, historic family (or two) committed to excellence you can rest easy. Upon first smell, it was immediately apparent this was high quality Burgundy that drank well beyond it’s quality designation (think village Morey-Saint-Denis). It’s beautifully perfumed and delicately nuanced with soft yet structured tannins that points to ageability. When Edouard started this project, he knew there was a reputation to uphold and it certainly shows in the final product. Everything he touches seemingly turns to gold and when I found out the price, I ordered as much as I was allowed. The bottles just arrived to the states six weeks ago and we let the wine rest a bit before offering and it is showing incredibly at the moment. So, I’d advise that you stock up for this upcoming holiday season, as it is ready to drink now.
Labruyère family’s roots go back to 1850 in the Moulin-à-Vent appellation of Beaujolais. While it’s still thriving, the family has expanded their reach, acquiring estates like the aforementioned Domaine Jacques Prieur of Meursault, Château Rouget of Pomerol, self-started J.M. Labruyère of Champagne (a past SommSelect offer) and, most recently, today’s label. The company is currently headed by Edouard Labruyère and Labruyère-Prieur Sélection was formed in 2013 in order to stake a claim as the greatest-value red Burgundy. And after establishing partnerships with select grower-friends and producers around Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, they pulled the trigger and now produce four labels—from “Bourgogne” to “Charmes-Chambertin.”
Although a Bourgogne label, all vineyards for this bottle can be traced back to Maranges, situated at the most southern end of Côte de Beaune. Soils here consist of a thin, pebbly layer with marl and limestone beneath. Since Edouard formed partnerships with specific families, they lease out the vineyards for this label, yet he makes sure all viticultural aspects are conducted by his own team. After hand-harvesting into small crates, grapes are sorted and destemmed at Domaine Jacques Prieur in nearby Meursault. The juice saw nearly three weeks of skin contact and fermentation was triggered by indigenous yeast. The wine aged in oak (10% new) for 12 months and an extremely light filtration was conducted before bottling.
In the glass 2014 Labruyère-Prieur Sélection Bourgogne Rouge displays a concentrated dark ruby core and shimmers on the rim with pink-light garnet hues. The explosive nose is a rich combination of perfume and fruit, launching off with freshly picked wild berries, red cherry, red plum, strawberry, dried orange, rose petal, forest floor, crushed stone, and black tea leaf. On the palate, the wine is sensuous and has a structure that belies the “Bourgogne” designation on the label. It is classic, juicy red Burgundy that has smooth tannins and a healthy polish of silky fruit; reminiscent of a Premier Cru. I recommend a brief 15-20 minute decant and enjoying at 60 degrees in large Burgundy stems. Another option is to pull the cork an hour or two prior to serving. From what I tasted in Europe, this has all the stuffing and structure to age gracefully over the next 5-7 years, though I also endorse immediate consumption. With temperatures dropping, drink this alongside a classic and rich beef bourguignon dish that’s bound to keep you feeling warm.
