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Joseph Roty, Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, “Très Vieilles Vignes”

Burgundy, France 2014 (750mL)
$300.00
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Joseph Roty, Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru, “Très Vieilles Vignes”

Any discussion of the Côte de Nuits village of Gevrey, and the charmed swath of “Chambertin” Grand Cru vineyards that made its name, must include the mythical Domaine Joseph Roty. I say “mythical” deliberately: This estate is very much the stuff of folk tales, headlined by the legend of the late Joseph Roty himself, who died in 2008 and is alternately described as iconoclastic, difficult, paranoid, and, in the words of British Burgundy eminence Clive Coates, “difficult to do business with.”
Be that as it may, Roty is synonymous with great Gevrey-Chambertin, and this 2014 from the Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru represents the pinnacle of the estate’s storied range of reds. This bottling, called “Très Vieilles Vignes,” is sourced from very old vines, indeed: Roty’s plot is said to have been planted immediately following the phylloxera epidemic of the late-1880s, a remarkable piece of living history that is showcased in one of the most profound red Burgundies you’ll ever taste. About nine barrels of this iconic wine are produced in a given vintage, and we managed to secure just a few cases from a great one—2014—to share with our top customers.
Just downslope from the “Le Chambertin” Grand Cru in the village of Gevrey-Chambertin, “Charmes” is said to have a slight northern tilt to its easterly aspect, resulting in vines that are marginally less sun-exposed in the morning in comparison to some of their Grand Cru neighbors. Conventional wisdom on this site is that its wines are a touch gentler and more accessible in their youth in comparison to the often-burly, ‘masculine’ reds of Gevrey-Chambertin in general, and this 2014 fits that profile, to an extent—it is, like most of Roty’s lineup, deeply colored and well-concentrated, lending it a supple seductiveness at this relatively young stage in its life. It is awfully tempting to drink now, but it will age 20+ years with ease.

Today run by Joseph Roty’s son, Philippe (who releases wines, especially Marsannay, under his own name as well), the domaine extends over 12 hectares of vineyards. The family’s history in Gevrey-Chambertin winemaking dates to the early 1700s, and their vineyard holdings in Gevrey are second to none: Their “Très Vieilles Vignes” plot of Charmes-Chambertin is the headliner, but they also bottle wines from the “Mazis-Chambertin” and “Griottes-Chambertin” Grand Crus, among many other prime vineyards. The wines are characterized by deep concentration thanks to low yields, and a goodly amount of new oak incorporated in their aging. Although detailed information about their farming and production regimens is scarce, “Très Vieilles Vignes” is said to be aged 16-17 months in 100% new French oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.

In the balanced, structured, “classic” 2014 vintage—a huge favorite of ours, as longtime subscribers are aware—Roty’s “TVV” is a monumental, life-changing red Burgundy. In the glass it’s a deep, glimmering ruby with garnet reflections at the rim, with an explosive aromatic mix of ripe black cherry, plum, cranberry, black tea, underbrush, black pepper, and a hint of tobacco. Medium-plus to full-bodied and lushly concentrated on the palate, it is awfully sexy right now but you can feel its powerful structure underpinning the kirsch-like fruit extract. If you simply must try one now, decant it about 60 minutes before serving in your best Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees. Sip slowly, and contemplatively; this is mind-bending, body-warming, soul-stirring stuff. And yes, it will be even better, broader, and more exquisitely perfumed when you pull it from your cellar in 2030. Pair it up with something gamey but elegant, maybe squab or quail. This is when spending $300 on a bottle of wine is absolutely warranted. You won’t soon forget it! Cheers!
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Country
France
Region
Burgundy
Sub-Region
FranceCôte de Nuits — Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Soil
Limestone & Clay
Blend
Pinot Noir 100%
Alcohol
13.5
OAK
100% New French
TEMP.
60-65
Glassware
Burgundy Stems
Drinking
Now-2030
Decanting
60 Minutes
Pairing
Blackberry & Balsamic Roast Quail

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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