Whether it’s a red or a white wine, fifth-generation vigneron Christine Gruère-Dubreuil has become a go-to source for Burgundy value. Having put her stamp on a family domaine that dates back to the late-1800s, Christine is, among other things, one of the great interpreters of the famed hill of Corton in the Côte de Beaune.
We have a very small amount of her 2013 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru to share with our top customers—a graceful, powerful Chardonnay of perfect proportions. Neither too “fat” nor too austere, I was taken by this wine’s combination of texture and energy. And although it has many years of development still ahead of it, it is quite delicious to drink now. If you’re in the market for real-deal Grand Cru white Burgundy at a price that is way below the norm for this cru (and who isn’t, really?), grab some of this before it sells out.
Dubreuil-Fontaine is based in Pernand-Vergelesses, with prime vineyard holdings in that village as well as in Beaune, Volnay, and Pommard. In total, they farm 20 hectares, and, since taking the reins back in the late-1980s, Christine has evolved the ‘house style’ in subtle but important ways: the initial sorting of grapes at harvest occurs in the vineyards; all fruit is de-stemmed prior to fermentation; and a maximum of 30% new oak is used for aging (and this is for the Grand Cru wines—the majority of the lineup sees little or no new oak).
One of the many things we love about Dubreuil-Fontaine is how beautifully their wines are presented by their importer. This is how the folks at APS Selections in Oakland describe this 2013:
“The Corton-Charlemagne appellation is a white wine appellation for wines made from the Chardonnay grape from designated parcels on the hill of Corton. The appellation curls along the hill from the coolest southeast facing slopes in Ladoix-Serrigny towards the warmest southerly slopes in Aloxe-Corton, ending with southwest and westerly exposures in Pernand-Vergelesses. The Pernand side is typically cooler than the Aloxe side, soaking-up the tepid, afternoon sun versus the baked rays of noon. The geography translates into Corton-Charlemagne with more nerve than stuffing. Dubreuil- Fontaine's expression is from 2 parcels located in the En Charlemagne sector, the tail-end of the westerly curl appellation. The younger parcel was planted in 1975, the older one was planted in 1950. Traditional winemaking with 30% new oak for 12 months. The 2013 distinguishes itself from the 2012 with a more floral and pitted stone fruit tone. The body is not your typical fat Corton-Charlemagne; there's a cozy, medium mid-palate texture but a free-fall of energy on the finish.”
I’d say that sums it up pretty darn well! If enjoying now, decant it about an hour before serving at 50-55 degrees in large Burgundy stems. The palate broadens quite nicely when given this treatment, although the wine is still crystalline and fine and capable of aging for many years more. As delicious as it is now, I think it’ll be peaking about 5 years from now. And of course, this is not an apéritif wine; pair it with the attached recipe for grilled shrimp with garlic and lemon for an extremely sophisticated summer meal. Although its price might not reflect it, this is Grand Cru we’re talking about—eat accordingly!