We’re always quick to remind you that Beaujolais is part of Burgundy and that Beaujolais reds from the Gamay grape are indeed “red Burgundies.” A lot of wine lovers (and makers) willfully ignore this, given the universal reverence of Pinot Noir, and this isn’t anything new—Gamay, which is literally the spawn of Pinot Noir, has always been the lesser-regarded grape, even though it was easier to grow (and therefore tempting for many to plant).
And while we tend to think of Gamay as being sequestered down in Beaujolais, it is still found in vineyards throughout Burgundy. The red wines of the Mâcon are based on Gamay, and its reach extends further north still, where it is often blended with Pinot Noir in a classic wine called “Passetoutgrain,” or “Passe-tout-grain.” We have a spicy and sophisticated example of this Burgundy classic from a tradition-minded producer, Confuron-Cotetidot—a property based in Vosne-Romanée, arguably the most hallowed Pinot Noir ground in Burgundy. Comprised of two-thirds Pinot and one-third Gamay, this 2014 is both a nod to Burgundy’s past and a bright, accessible red to be savored in the present. For a producer like Confuron-Cotetidot, whose structured reds are ideally cellared for many years before they’re consumed, a wine like this is not just a novelty but a necessity—a wine that’s immediately accessible, eminently enjoyable, and extremely well-priced.
“Passetoutgrain” translates roughly to “throw it all together,” and its existence as an officially codified appellation wine (AOC) speaks to the fact that vineyards in Burgundy were often “co-planted” to many different grapes. Typically, Passetoutgrain is some mixture of Pinot Noir and Gamay, but white grapes may be used in small percentages as well. Back in the days when Burgundy was an even colder, more marginal climate than it is now, Passetoutgrain served a valuable purpose as a wine to consume young, while the more austere, pure Pinot Noir wines came together in barrel. And I’ve got to say, there’s a lot to like in this blend: the perfume of the Pinot Noir remains at the fore, but is supported by the rounder, softer fruit component of the Gamay. The grapes are related, after all—it makes sense that they complement one another.
Confuron-Cotetidot is a family-run operation, specializing in vine propagation and selection massale. Parents Jacky and Bernadette work the vines, and brothers Yves and Jack operate the estate and the cellar, respectively. They have holdings in sites from village level to Grand Cru, and they even have a clone of Pinot Noir in their name: “Pinot Confuron.” Vines are an average of 65 years or older, hand-harvested and cared for tirelessly to produce low yields. Farming has always been done organically, without the use of synthetic pesticides or herbicides, and wines are unfiltered and unfined. They apply 100% whole cluster fermentation, followed by a 2- to 3-week maceration and up to 2 years in the barrel—the amount of new oak dependent on the appellation. Their upper-tier wines, many of which we’ve offered here, are built for long aging. This is what you drink while you wait!
The 2014 Confuron-Cotetidot Bourgogne Passetoutgrain is made up of one-third Gamay and two-thirds Pinot Noir—and, lest you think Gamay is the sole preserve of “southern” Burgundy, the Gamay in this wine is from 30- to 40-year-old vines in Vosne-Romanée, home to many of Pinot Noir’s most hallowed Grand Crus (La Tâche, Échezeaux, etc.). In the glass it is a reflective dark ruby with magenta and pink highlights at the rim. Each time you return to the glass you get different hints of its component parts: black cherry, strawberry, baking spices, and forest floor (Pinot) one moment, followed by purple plums, iodine, and violet (Gamay) the next. Texturally it is medium-bodied, with brisk acidity and a grippy, refreshing twang that owes at least in part to whole-cluster fermentation. This is a wine to enjoy now in Burgundy stems at a coolish 55-60 degrees (which will tame its acidity and bring out its fruit), yet it has enough backbone to pair with meats off the grill. Check it out with the attached recipe for Texas-style short ribs and, if you have friends around, prepare yourself accordingly—multiple bottles will be drained, and quickly. Cheers!
