Talk about a winemaker who personifies his product: Bernard Moreau took over the vineyards and cellar at his family domaine at the age of 14. Fourteen! That must have been some freshman year; the Moreau family has been synonymous with Chassagne-Montrachet since Auguste Moreau built a cellar across from the “Champs Gain” Premier Cru in 1809. And while Bernard has since ceded most responsibilities to his ‘fils,’ Alex and Benoit, he is still a presence in the cellar, the vineyards, and on the label.
This Bourgogne Chardonnay, from the excellent 2014 vintage, is perhaps the best value we’ve encountered yet this year—a ‘Bourgogne’-designated wine that punches way above its weight. As we are so fond of noting, the true measure of a great estate is not its top-of-the-line stuff but its “little” wines. On this score, Domaine Bernard Moreau confirms its greatness with a Bourgogne Chardonnay which, at a recent tasting, flat-out ‘dusted’ wines that cost twice as much. If you encountered this wine by the glass in a restaurant, you’d salute the sommelier as a hero; now it’s your time to be the hero, by having some of this around to share with friends and family.
This 2014 “baby Chassagne” is a lustrous yellow-gold with slight green reflections at the rim, its nose an inviting mix of yellow apple, bosc pear, lime skin, crushed stones, and brioche. It is substantial on the palate, but also focused—one of those wines where the acidity frames, rather than masks, the fruit. On sheer size alone, it feels like a much more expensive wine, but it has real ‘breed’ as well. It is very clear you’re drinking something serious, and I would even consider laying some down for a few years. If enjoying this wine now, decant it 30 minutes before serving in Burgundy stems at 50-55 degrees. There’s enough richness here to pair it with lobster or other hearty seafood preparations. I like the looks of this Cioppino from Martha Stewart, and I like the idea of having a case of this wine around so I can look like a hero on a regular basis. This just scored a place on my home by-the-glass list. How about yours?