Amidst a steep, natural amphitheater in the center of Chablis’ seven Grand Crus rests the Grand Cru of Vaudésir. The iconic vineyard produces some of most long-lived wines of Chablis and represents a steal when compared to Grand Cru whites from vineyards further south in Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune. From the rising star Domaine Garnier this wine takes everything we love about Chablis and delivers even more of it.
The organically farmed vines are transformed through traditional winemaking into a pure, uber-concentrated reflection of this vineyard site. With aromatic complexity, texture and an almost incomprehensive display of minerality, this wine offers a staggering expression of place with a weight and depth that is rarely encountered in the appellation. In addition, because of intense hailstorms and crushing losses in Chablis, it’s safe to say that prices are going to rise significantly over the coming years. Grand Cru values like this won’t last long and I encourage you to stock up on this incredible Chablis.
Perched in the epicenter of the seven Grand Cru vineyards of Chablis, Vaudésir spreads out in a strikingly steep amphitheater of southern exposure. Known for its femininity as well as its immense aging potential, Vaudésir is a singular Grand Cru that more than lives up to its lauded reputation. This example is crafted by a rising star among the producers of Chablis and offers texture, depth and power along with the freshness and precise minerality we all crave when Chablis is at its apex. The past few years have witnessed serious hail, resulting in much lower yields, which is going to send prices into orbit. Luckily, this wine is still available at an incredibly modest price tag and is crafted by a family whose care in the vineyards has resulted in one of the most profound expressions of terroir out there.
For decades, the Garnier family have been conscientious vignerons to their 57-acre estate, which contains some of the most special parcels across Chablis. However, it wasn’t until 1996 when brothers, Xavier and Jérôme, took the reins that the family began producing their own wines. Jérôme is the vigneron of the estate and utilizes traditional, organic practices that elevate the biodiversity of the vineyards while Xavier serves as the incredibly astute winemaker. Following a manual harvest that takes place later than many of their neighbors, Xavier ferments the wine with indigenous yeasts in climate-controlled stainless steel. This traditional, non-interventionist vinification is completed with 12 twelve months of aging in 70% used 600-liter French oak and 30% in stainless steel tanks. The wine is bottled without filtration and offers a pure, unadulterated snapshot of the celebrated Grand Cru vineyard.
It takes some air for this wine to start up, but once it does, buckle your seatbelts! The 2013 Vaudésir opens with aromas green yellow apple, white peach pit and lemon blossom that hover just above crushed oyster shells, hazelnuts, wet white rocks, a touch of raw honey and stirred lees. Every minute this wine is open, it reveals more aromatics and character that levitate above the glass. Nearly full-bodied in terms of Chablis, this Grand Cru beauty has a beautiful roundness and texture, with fruit reminiscent of the nose, that dips into the earth with focused flavors of oyster shell and crushed chalk minerality that lingers on the palate for a seemingly endless finish. This wine needs a minimum of 60-90 minutes in the decanter, but each sip thereafter will reveal another layer of nuance and complexity. Although it is stunning at this very moment, this wine’s true greatness will be seen between its 7th and 15th birthday, or beyond if kept in a dark and cold cellar. For those of you who have experienced great, aged Chablis, you already know this will be well worth the wait. For the ultimate experience, serve in Burgundy stems between 55-60 degrees, no cooler or the aromatics will be stifled, then prepare this
Poached Halibut with Leeks, Mushrooms and Clams in a delicate broth for an incredible gastronomic experience.
