If there is one Premier Cru in Chablis that stands at the top, it is without a doubt, Montée de Tonnerre. The wines of this famed vineyard can easily garner over $150 when produced by the famous Domaine Raveneau. However, there are a tiny number of producers that can rival the very best at much more affordable prices.
This 2013 Etienne Boileau Montée de Tonnerre reveals focused minerality, freshness, and expressive concentration that brings sublime pleasure. At this price, you will be hard-pressed to find a better Chablis on the market. If you collect White Burgundy or just want to drink it, you do not want to miss this.
Perpetually touted by critics as Chablis’ greatest Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnerre appropriately translates to, “Thunder Mountain,” which is fitting for this crisp, dense, and complex nectar of the gods. Perched on the right bank of the River Serein, just below the famous unbroken strip of Chablis Grand Crus, Montée de Tonnerre is nestled across a slender ravine from the famous Les Blanchots. Thanks to this ideal locale, this special pocket of Chablis enjoys comparable aspect, sun exposure and the rich Kimmeridgian limestone that garners Grand Cru Chablis’ loyal following among sommeliers and Chablis lovers around the world. The complex soil here is comprised of Kimmeridgian soil, dating back to the Upper Jurassic, as well as Argilo-Calcaire, which consists of limestone, clay and fossilized oyster shell, which aids in giving premium Chablis their signature minerality and inimitable flavor profile.
Etienne Boileau credits his treasured 2.13-hectare parcel on the slopes of Montée de Tonnerre for the superior character and structure of this special wine. In crafting this beauty, he ferments with selected yeasts and initiates malolactic fermentation under temperature control. The wine is aged in 80% stainless steel and 20% French oak, the newest of which is a minimum of four years old. Afterward elevage, the wine is treated for tartaric precipitation then bottled. The result is a wine of crystalline minerality and laser-like acidity balanced by rich concentration – in other words, everything we crave in Chablis.
This wine exhibits a pale yellow straw core moving to green reflections on the rim. The mineral-driven nose is dominated by crushed stones and oyster shells over a stunning background of white peach pit, green plums, lemon blossoms, honey and green tea powder. The medium-bodied palate boasts fierce minerality with perfect freshness resulting from the high acid, alongside incredible concentration, delivering what I consider the perfect example of Chablis at this age. This wine is delicious now, but it should keep beautifully for decades in the cellar. If you decide to enjoy this bottle soon, serve at 55-60 degrees in large Burgundy stems. Do not serve from cold from the refrigerator or the wine will be closed. As the wine warms and receives enough air, it will reach its most expressive as it comes into balance and fills out in texture. For a pairing worthy of a Montée de Tonnerre, serve this
Grilled Sea Bass encased in Fig Leaves. Enjoy!