The stunning appellation on the drier, eastern side of the Vosges Mountains, slightly south of Strasbourg, Alsace has a rich, confounding and fascinating history. It’s widely known that the region has changed hands between France and Germany countless times and has resulted in predominantly French-speaking citizens with German accents. Inevitably, there is infinitely more to the ancient locale’s history and culinary evolution. One such story revolves around the famed Sun King himself. In the late 1640’s, in an effort to revitalize Alsace following its decimation in the thirty years war, Louis XIV granted lands to Europeans from all over France who wanted to come and farm the land. The result was a confluence of culinary tradition that would give Alsace its rich gastronomic complexity that we know today. The noble Riesling varietal, the most revered of the region, is less transparent than its German counterpart yet offers more earth-driven and savory complexities that are simply inimitable. Thanks to the Vosges Mountains’ rain shadow effect, the vineyards of Alsace get very little rain and a perfect dose of sunshine, which allows the ideal phenolic ripeness in such a northern spot.
The Beck-Hartwig family has been making wine in the picturesque village of Dambach-la-Ville in the northern reaches of cultivated Alsace – or Bas-Rhin – since 1590! Today, Florian and Mathilde represent the fourteenth generation to farm this family’s 5.5 hectares of charmed terroir. The couple is passionately devoted to organic viticulture and the life force behind their vines. In the cellar, they ferment with strictly wild yeasts and only use the minimal amount of sulfur possible. Florian intervenes as little as possible with this innate process of winemaking and depends predominantly on the health of the vineyards and the personality of each vintage. The result is a stunning expression of Alsace Riesling that captures the incredible lineage and pedigree with every sip.
This 2012 Riesling displays a concentrated light golden core with green and light golden reflections on the rim. Aromatics of freshly picked yellow apple, yellow melon, candied lemon peel, lime blossom and dried mango are laced with honeycomb, white button mushrooms, and a touch of lees. On the palate, the wine is dry and medium-bodied with flavors of creamy yellow apple, lemon blossom, dried pineapple, mango, and a touch of white pepper with a finely crushed stone minerality. This wine easily has 5-10 years ahead of it, if kept well, although it will not get much better than the beautiful place it is in at this very moment. To enjoy, simply decant for thirty minutes and serve in Riesling or all purpose stems at 45-50 degrees (Bordeaux stems also work well). This beauty should be served with food and will elevate a vast array of possibilities. For an authentic Alsatian experience, serve this wine with the
James Beard Foundation’s recipe for Choucroute Garnie. This is without question one of the greatest pairings on earth which is worth the effort. Make large batch and throw a party with your best friends served with unlimited dry Riesling as they would in Alsace. Bon Appetit!
