Chablis is classified into four quality levels that are determined by a site’s location, soil, aspect and sun exposure, therefore a bottle is either labeled as Petit Chablis, Village, Premier Cru or Grand Cru. This prime example, nestled at the ideal exposure between the celebrated Premier Cru Montmains and Vosgros vineyards, “Les Pargues’ lieu-dit is technically a village-level bottle that boasts 40-50 year old vines, which results in an abundance of concentration and divine texture that is rarely seen outside of a top-quality Premier Cru. Thanks to its immediate proximity to Premier Cru sites, this lieu-dit vineyard is capable of fooling even the most seasoned tasters in a blind, but is attainable for a village-level price point. With the remarkable Kimmeridgian limestone soils of its neighbors, this treasured parcel delivers 200 million years of minerality to the wine. In prehistoric times, this land was submerged underwater. After millennia, the exposed limestone and oyster shells are now scattered amongst rows of vines and lends the signature minerality and inimitable flavor profile that make the best examples of Chablis so profound.
The Naudet family has been crafting wine in this special pocket of France since the 1800’s, but the name of Domaine Moreau-Naudet was only established in 1950 when Marie Naudet and René Moreau wed. Today, their grandson, Stéphane Moreau, is at the helm of the famed family estate and their star has only continued to rise since he took the reigns in 1991. The esteemed Burgundy expert, Allen Meadows, recently commented, “I find Moreau to be one of the most exciting young growers in Chablis and his wines are well worth the trouble to get to know if you haven't yet tried them.” With meticulous attention to detail in the vineyard as well as the cellar, during his tenure Stéphane has dramatically reduced the yields in the 22-hectare domaine. He experiments with biodynamics and uses only organic fertilizers and eschews the use of herbicides and anti-fungal treatments. Following manual harvest, the fruit is gently pressed then 30% barrel aged in steamed neutral French oak. The wine is aged on its lees for a staggering eighteen months, which only adds to the complex concentration and ample texture, already abundant from the old vines. The result is a textbook example of top-quality Chablis at a price point you can enjoy by the case.
This 2011 Les Pargues lieu-dit displays a light straw golden core with green and golden reflections on the rim. The super classic nose is bright and fresh yet shows a touch of maturity with aromas of dried yellow apple, bosc pear, white peach pit, salted preserved lemon and lemon blossoms over a complex array of beeswax, lees, white flowers and oyster shell like minerality. The concentrated palate mirrors the fruits on the nose along with crystalline freshness and a long mineral-driven finish. Decant for thirty minutes and serve just about cellar temp, or slightly above, at 55-60 degrees in Burgundy stems to experience the whole textural and aromatic display. Temperature is key with good Chablis, please do not drink this wine directly from the refrigerator (~40F) or the wine will be closed. This wine is drinking at close to its peak now, yet will continue to slowly develop for another decade if kept well. For a serious pairing, prepare this
Fish and Shiitake Mushroom recipe for the wine to really come to life.