Although “Bourgogne” seen on a wine label is an all-encompassing, regional AOC that covers the basic level of Pinot Noir, there are a few specific high-quality sub-appellations that are granted the favor of attaching their name to the label. Such is the case with Bourgogne Épineuil Rouge. A tiny commune situated just outside Chablis in northern Burgundy; Épineuil boasts Kimmeridgian limestone soils, incredible history and the ideally located Langres Plateau that shields these cold weather vineyards from harsh winds. The history of this unique corner of Burgundy has a rich winemaking history that reaches back to the middle ages. A favorite of Parisians and King Henri IV, the tiny appellation thrived until the vineyards were devastated by phylloxera in the 1850’s. The area did not enjoy as quick of a comeback as the Côte d’Or, but their Bourgogne Rouge was granted the right to include the Épineuil commune’s name in 1993. When crafted by quality-driven producers like Domaine Gruhier, this sub-appellation is capable of creating compelling examples of Pinot Noir that every Burgundy lover should experience at a price that is hard to come by in the rest of the region.
Dominique Gruhier took the reins of this historic, 804-year-old estate in 1990. Incredibly passionate and motivated, Dominique converted the vineyards to organic and was granted certification in 2010. One of the brightest stars of the appellation, Dominique has elevated the commune during his tenure and has bolstered a name that is now synonymous with quality and classic expressions of Burgundy with a voice of his unique terroir. His Côte de Grisey rests on a south/southeast-facing slope in shallow Kimmeridgian soil, which boasts beautiful and focused minerality. The pristine fruit is macerated for twenty days in tank then pneumatic pressed into older French oak where it ages for fifteen months before bottling. The resulting wine is a snapshot of the best northern Burgundy has to offer at a price point that is well worth the gamble if you are new to this special pocket.
The 2014 Bourgogne Épineuil Rouge, Côte de Grisey displays a light ruby red core with light garnet on the rim. After 45 minutes in a decanter this gorgeous nose blossoms into aromas of freshly picked, slightly underripe strawberry, sour cherry and pomegranate over an array of wet roses, hibiscus, wild herbs, tea leaf, mushroom, wet moss and crushed white rock. The medium-bodied palate delivers flavors of slightly freshly picked berries, pomegranates, red plum, wildflowers, grape stems, mushrooms, deep umami characteristics and white rock minerality. This is serious wine, but very young now; it's necessary to give the wine ample time to open up. If you plan to drink this wine young, give it plenty of air. For the first 20-30 minutes in a decanter, this wine will remain somewhat closed, but after 45 minutes it will blossom into a wine full of life, energy and floral complexity that encapsulates everything we search for in a young red Burgundy. Decade-old examples from this unique vineyard are currently stunning, and this wine will be even more beautiful in its maturity thanks to the now organically-farmed practices. I recommend trying a couple of bottles young and allowing the remainder to age for at least 3-5+ years. A decade in the cellar will make you wish you could go back in time to buy more. Like most great wines, this bottles shows at its best with food and is marvelous with
this roast duck with plums.