For those unfamiliar with Chablis, I would like to point out that there are four quality levels determined by a vineyard’s location, soil, aspect and sun exposure. These levels are listed on the label in ascending order as Petit Chablis, Village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru. In general, but not always, the higher elevation of the vineyard, the more rich and complex and hopefully, the better the wine. Of all the individual vineyards in Chablis, the French government has classified 79 as Premier Cru, although many of the lesser known sites, or “climats,” are bottled under one of the seventeen better known Premier Cru (1er Cru) names. There are only seven official Grand Crus. Although classified vineyard sites carry a substantial amount of weight, producers are incredibly important. In fact, certain producers, Duplessis included, can outperform another middle-of-the-road producer’s Premier Cru or even Grand Cru with their mere village level bottling.
Since 1897, Domaine Gerard Duplessis has grown and produced Chablis from their small family estate for five generations. Gerard Duplessis passed the torch to his son, Lilian, in 1999. Lilian almost immediately converted their holdings to organic viticulture. Thanks to Lilian’s guidance, Domaine Gerard Duplessis is currently one of a small number of organic estates in Chablis; this is exceedingly impressive in a region that typically depends on conventional chemical farming due to challenges the cold, damp weather of the appellation brings. To work the vineyards with an organic approach is incredibly labor intensive. The Domaine crafts wines from Petit Chablis all the way up to their Grand Cru, Le Clos. However, the majority of their vineyards are classified as Premier Cru comprising Vaugiraut, Vaillons, Fourchaume, Montee de Tonnerre, Montmains and Mont de Milieu. Today’s wine is sourced from four magnificent parcels, Minot, Epinottes, Séchet, and Chatain, that all lie within the Vaillons Premier Cru. The harvest’s bounty undergoes alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel utilizing only natural yeasts. The wine spends twelve months on its lees before it is racked into older, neutral French oak for six months. The wine is then bottled with incredibly low sulfur levels. The resulting wine is incredible and a true star of the appellation.
The 2011 Duplessis Vaillons has a concentrated light gold core moving to pale green and gold reflections on the rim. The aromas are complex, savory and incredibly energetic exhibiting aromatics of preserved yellow apples, orange blossoms, lemon zest, honey, white stones, crushed oyster shells and a touch of wet wool. The palate is concentrated and very full in body for a Premier Cru, boasting flavors that mirror those on the nose with a very long and concentrated thirst-quenching finish. This wine needs air. For optimal results, decant for a minimum of one hour and serve in large Burgundy stems at cellar temperature then let the wine unfold like magic in the glass as it slowly warms. Do not serve this wine too cold or it will refuse to show its true place among the world’s greatest Chardonnays. This wine has limitless ageing potential. Although it is insanely good now, it will most likely peak in about ten years depending on storage conditions. Although this incredibly versatile white of weight and mineral clarity can handle countless pairings, I always seem to find myself craving a plate of well-rested room temperature cheeses alongside some marcona almonds and a fresh baguette. My favorites cheeses with good Chablis are as follows: Epoisses (Cow, France), Beaufort (Cow, France), Brillat Savarin (Cow, France), and Camellia - Redwood Hill Farm (Goat, USA). Take this beauty with a picnic basket of cheese and accoutrements to your favorite outdoor sight and start summer off right. Enjoy.
