Although Chablis is technically part of the Burgundy region, it is over 80 miles north of Beaune and is separated from the Côte d'Or by the Morvan Hills. Just a couple hours from Paris, Chablis is actually forty miles closer to Champagne’s southern Aube appellation than it is to the rest of Burgundy. It is not merely distance that isolates Chablis; the soils and climate are also quite distinct. The northern continental climate delivers much cooler temperatures and the soils are truly something special, boasting signature Kimmeridgian limestone that delivers a flavor profile 180 million years in the making. During the Upper Jurassic Age, this area was under water; what was left behind is a composition of limestone, clay and fossilized oyster shells that is delightfully unmistakable in the glass and is one of the most stunning examples of terroir’s power in the world. If you were to take a stroll through the rolling vineyards, you would almost certainly stumble across some sort of seashell on your jaunt. They are everywhere and what they offer the wine is pure magic. Millions of years later, but still ancient history, the Romans are believed to have first cultivated the region of Chablis. However, it wouldn’t be until roughly the 12th century when the Cistercian monks of Pontigny Abbey planted Chardonnay in Chablis; from there it is believed to have spread to the rest of Burgundy.
Today’s producer is an integral part of the appellation’s modern history. Daniel Dampt & Fils is nurtured by a family that boasts 150 years of viticulture in Chablis. Daniel, along with his sons Vincent and Sebastien and his famous father-in-law Jean Defaix, has built a reputation for incredible quality. Their wines are carefully crafted from some of the most treasured sites in the entire region. This bottling is produced from older vines derived of Kimmeridgian soil and a higher proportion of clay, which further concentrates the wine. This Premier Cru sub-climat of Vaillons called, “Le Lys,” located on the left bank of the Serein River, is a special site. It is the only Premier Cru blessed with eastern exposure, enabling it to bathe in more of the sun’s rays during the day, which lends a rich texture and aromatic complexity only seen in top sites of Chablis. Historically important to the region as well, “Le Lys,” belonged to the French Crown several centuries ago and draws its name from the symbolic flower of the French Monarchy, the treasured lily. This bottling utilizes natural yeast for fermentation, is aged for six months in stainless steel in an effort to retain varietal purity and freshness then is lightly fined and filtered before bottling.
This 2013 Le Lys has a light golden, straw yellow core with green reflections on the rim. The nose possesses powerful and slightly creamy aromas of white peach, pear, beeswax, unripe yellow apple and a touch of lemon zest mingled with notes of oyster shell, mild honeysuckle, slight cheese rind and stirred lees. The medium-bodied palate boasts high-acidity, medium-plus body and flavors similar to the nose driven by a concentrated, textbook oyster shell finish. This wine is developing beautifully. It is fresh and absolutely delicious now, but the wine needs lots of air. If you drink a bottle right away, which I highly recommend, decant it for one hour and serve at cellar temperature in an all-purpose or large Burgundy stem. As the wine takes air the wine will expand in texture. This wine is a touch high strung out of the bottle, so give it the patience to unwind. Although shellfish, especially oysters, offers a classic pairing, try something a bit more complex to stand up to the wine’s minerality and divine texture. A fantastic pairing with this Chablis is this Grilled Scallop with Belgian Endive Salad, the flavors balance perfectly on the palate and it will kick off any dinner party with a great experience.