Salt, Smoke & Tempranillo: A Spanish Dinner in Six Bottles
It starts the way the best Spanish dinners do: a wide paella pan over a wood fire, the smell of saffron and smoke drifting through the air, and a cold glass of Albariño in hand while the rice slowly crisps at the bottom of the pan. Nobody's in a hurry. The whites carry you through the tapas and the first bites of seafood, then the reds take over as the night goes on, from the volcanic slopes of Tenerife to the old vines of Bierzo, Rioja and the high plateau of Ribera del Duero. By the time the last bottle is open, the fire's down to embers and no one wants to leave.
Pull up a chair. Here's what we're pouring.
2024 Castel de Fornos Albariño, Rías Baixas
The Aperitivo
Made by Bodegas Chaves, one of the oldest family wineries in the Salnés Valley, the coolest and most coastal corner of Rías Baixas. Bright citrus, white peach and a salty, ocean-air finish. This is the bottle to open while the table is still filling up.
Pair with: Gambas al ajillo, boquerones, Manchego and marcona almonds.
2024 Artuke Rioja Blanco "Trascuevas," Rioja
The White That Changes Minds
Forget heavy, oak-soaked Spanish whites. Artuke's Trascuevas is fresh and focused, with orchard fruit, herbs and a mineral backbone that shows how serious white Rioja can be.
Pair with: Grilled fish, chicken with lemon and herbs, or a seafood paella.
2022 Envínate "Táganan" Tinto, Tenerife
The Volcanic Wildcard
From ancient vines clinging to volcanic rock above the Atlantic on Tenerife's rugged northern coast. Light on its feet, with red fruit, smoke and a savory, salty edge. Nothing else in Spain tastes like it.
Pair with: Pulpo a la gallega, charred vegetables, jamón ibérico.
2022 Michelini i Muffato "La Petra," Bierzo
The Mencía Revelation
Two Argentine winemakers left the Andes for the hillsides of northwest Spain and found forgotten, 80-year-old Mencía vines. The result is floral and peppery, with dark cherry and a fresh, mountain-grown lift.
Pair with: Pork tenderloin, mushroom dishes, chorizo.
2019 Contino Rioja Reserva, Rioja
The Original Single Estate
When CVNE founded Contino in 1973, it became Rioja's first single-estate "château," at a time when nearly every bodega blended fruit from across the region. Classic Reserva structure, red fruit, spice and savory depth.
Pair with: Roast lamb, lechazo, aged cheeses.
2021 Rippa Dorii "Celtiberia" Crianza, Ribera del Duero
The High Duero Closer
Grown along the high plateau of the Duero River, where hot days and cold nights give Tempranillo its power. Dark fruit, cocoa and firm structure for the main course.
Pair with: Grilled ribeye, braised short ribs, Idiazábal.
