From one of our favorite Burgundian producers, comes an example that embodies the majesty of Clos de la Roche.
Perched in the northern stretch of Morey-Saint-Denis along the Route des Grand Crus, just south of Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos de la Roche is arguably the greatest Grand Cru of the esteemed village. According to Burgundy guru Clive Coates, “It is the biggest and classiest of the Morey Grand Crus. But the structure has an inherent lushness to it…Ample and classy it certainly is.” Enclosed by an ancient ‘clos’ or rock wall, Clos de la Roche benefits from an eastern aspect and excellent drainage thanks to its incline. At 270-300 meters in elevation, the soils are comprised of Bajocian limestone mixed with clay and limestone rock scree roughly 30 centimeters in depth. The result is a wine with the serious structure of nearby Le Chambertin with the lush fruit and elegance of its neighboring Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru. Raphet’s vines are nestled near the border of Clos Saint-Denis and range in age from 34 to 96 years of age and are kept at very low yields.
Gérard Raphet, who took over the Domaine from his father in 2002, manually farms his vineyards with an approach known as “lutte raisonnée,” which literally translates to “the reasoned struggle.” This method utilizes only organic practices in the vineyards unless an emergency arises in extremely difficult vintages. With this in mind, Gérard and his team use traditional cultivation methods and harvest by hand. The grapes undergo strict sorting then are fermented with only indigenous yeasts in tank. The wine is aged for 18 months in no more than 15% new French oak and is bottled without fining or filtration. The result is an aromatically powerful wine of restrained elegance, bolstered structure and a captivating sense of place.
The 2022 Clos de la Roche exhibits a garnet red core with light garnet reflections on the rim. Aromas of wild raspberry, black cherry pit, wet roses and crushed flowers are infused with notes of strawberry, red currant, black tea, wet forest, damp leaves, a touch of crushed black rocks and an overarching perfume that will only deepen with a few more years in the cellar. The palate is restrained yet concentrated with a touch of grip on the mid-palate, which is a testament to its infinite aging potential. Fruit flavors reminiscent of the nose are intertwined with additional notes of pomegranate, black cherry, a touch of leather and tobacco as well as wet leaves and underbrush that delineate into a long finish driven by crushed minerals. As I have mentioned, this wine is delicious in its youth, but its true majesty will only begin to shine around its 7-10th birthday with its peak at about 15 years of age. This wine’s amazing intensity is truly worthy of this classic Boeuf Bourguignon on a cool winter evening. Enjoy!
