Domaine de la Pousse d’Or, Volnay 1er Cru "Clos de 60 Ouvrees" Monopole
Domaine de la Pousse d‘Or is one of the oldest and most respected producers in all of Burgundy. Although the house has changed hands multiple times during the past millennium, they have been producing legendary wines since the famous Dukes of Burgundy reigned back in 1100. In the Volnay appellation, the Domaine, once connected to the likes of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Clos de Tart, has continually, and impressively, maintained exclusive ownership of the famed, “Clos de La Bousse d’Or,” Premier Cru vineyard site for centuries. One of the most storied and historic sites in all of Burgundy, it has been protected by a picturesque stonewall since the time in which it was tended by the monks. The 2021s play perfectly into what Pousse d’Or does best: Combining rich, succulent fruit with complex savor and a structure that virtually guarantees many, many years of cellar potential. And despite their exceptional pedigree and history, these wines remain some of the best values in top tier Burgundy.
The “Clos de 60 Ouvrees” is a walled parcel located within the larger “Caillerets” vineyard. The entire parcel belongs to Pousse d’Or, hence Monopole, and the vines are between 40 and 70 years old. “Ouvrees” is an old French term for the amount of land one farmer can till in a day, so I suppose this vineyard could theoretically be farmed by a single person over the growing season. In other words it is very small! The excellent exposition and old vines lead to a richer, more textural Volnay that has loads of ripe black cherries, baking spices, anisette, and saline minerality. I wouldn’t touch a bottle for at least five more years, and ideally 10-15, but if you do — give it a good decant and enjoy!