The Bordeaux powerhouse of Margaux has been universally crowned as one of the world’s most hallowed terroirs for centuries, but the release of the fervently buzzed-about 2015s elevated it to an almost divine level. Margaux reds in this blockbuster year instantly became an unstoppable force that catapulted prices skyward and triggered absolute pandemonium amongst collectors and critics. All of that, of course, is distinctly why today’s cellar-direct Grand Vin is such an extraordinary treasure.
Château Deyrem-Valentin is an elegant, deeply special Margaux whose remarkable value defies logic, and I guarantee whenever this bottle is opened, be it now or in 10 years, your very small investment will be handsomely rewarded. There is no other way to say it: Today’s 2015 is the best price-to-quality Margaux you’ll find. At nearly 300 years old, Deyrem-Valentin is one of the region’s classic estates, and their time-honored stamp of tradition has earned them a small trove of supreme vine real estate. While some of their vines were originally part of Super Second Château Palmer ($350 for the same vintage), all of their vines are surrounded by five Margaux Classed Growths. Further, the organically-farmed grapes are raised with judicious touches of new oak in order to allow the gravelly terroir and lush purity of Cabernet/Merlot in 2015 to shine. In short, this cellar-direct batch of Deyrem-Valentin is genuine, cellar-worthy Margaux...and it comes your way for a scant $36. This drinks like its neighboring titans, and will certainly age alongside them for a long time to come. You won’t find a better Margaux value!
A lot of younger wine lovers today have a blind spot when it comes to Bordeaux. For all of the great wine coming out of the region, it’s still on the wrong side of fashion. For one thing, the tippy-top of the ‘classified growth’ properties suck up the lion’s share of the attention. Then there’s the scale on which much Bordeaux is produced—large—which runs counter to a growing desire for the artisanal, the organic, the horse-plowed, etc. Huge properties owned by banks and insurance companies, using mechanized viticulture and high-priced winemaking consultants, are not what the cool kids are after these days. But, of course, these are broad and woefully misguided generalizations.
The best way I can debunk them is to put forth a wine like this classic Cru Bourgeois Margaux from Château Deyrem-Valentin. This family-run, 13-hectare property is a model of humility and restraint in a region known for luxurious heavy hitters. Deyrem-Valentin has a long history in Margaux dating back to 1730. The Sorge family purchased the estate in 1928 (with the addition of vines formerly owned by Château Palmer), and it has remained in their hands ever since. Fourth-generation sisters Sylvie and Christelle are currently at the helm, and with Christelle having studied enology at the University of Bordeaux, trained at three of the five First Growths, and implemented organic farming, the quality here has reached unprecedented levels.
The equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is pure and clean, the product of the Sorge family’s careful attention to organic farming. The crop is handpicked and twice-sorted before a long fermentation in concrete tanks. Afterward, the wine is sent into French oak—never more than 33% new—for at least 15 months, resulting in a texturally rich and powerful layered Margaux. We specially purchased this batch from Bordeaux earlier this year.
By now, I hope I’ve made it clear that getting this level of quality and pedigree in Margaux for 30-something dollars is an unbelievably rare occurrence, so treat this like you would one of its luxury counterparts. If consuming in the next couple of years, I recommend a minimum 60-minute decant before serving in large Bordeaux stems around 60 degrees. Now, you’re ready to let the good times roll: Brooding aromatics of cassis, black cherry, plum, and framboise waft out in elegant fashion and are quickly followed by a wave of licorice, lead, pipe tobacco, cedar, lavender, turned earth, baking spices, and crushed gravel. A finessed palate unfolds to reveal the booming power of 2015—lush, rich dark fruit is wound inside persistent, velvety tannins that meld into an enchanting, aromatic finish. It’s a joy to drink now, but it will age beautifully for another decade with proper storage. This is the level of brilliance, richness, and elegance that the top labels of Margaux bring—but none of them do it at a low price like Deyrem-Valentin. Enjoy!
