When Viognier is grown in the right place—and Condrieu, of course, is its spiritual home—its balance of honeyed texture, exotic aromas, and taut acidity makes for one of the most memorable white wine experiences around.
The grape can be naturally low in acidity yet requires extended hang time on the vine for its full aromatic range to emerge, so there’s always the danger of skewing a little fat and sweet. Philippe and Maxime stay true to their course and push the vines to produce powerful but balanced grapes before harvesting by hand and fermenting with natural yeasts. The wine is aged in 500L barrels before being bottled with the lightest possible filtration—a real peek into Condrieu the way it is meant to be.
The resulting wine is superbly balanced without sacrificing any of the rich texture that makes Condrieu so hedonistic and satisfying. Let the wine breathe in the glass for a few minutes and marvel at the cushion of scent that develops—a pillow of orchard fruit and exotic floral notes that transport you to the Rhône’s baked terraces. The wine is a limped green-tinged straw in the glass, with obvious viscosity that’s more reminiscent of hot, runny honey than oil in both smell and feel. Intense pear, white nectarine, and meyer lemon rind take precedence on the palate, highlighted by zestier notes of ginger. The structure is what’s most surprising, here: Pichon's Condrieu is mineral, taut, and has an impressively long finish. It actually makes your mouth water—easily one of the most energetic and full-bodied whites in France! A whiff of violet pastilles lingers like perfume on the finish and sticks in the imagination. This Condrieu can be enjoyed without food, but will do equally well with grilled tuna belly, lightly seasoned with fresh lemon juice and herbs.
