One of Germany’s most renowned producers, Cornelius Dönnhoff extracts the raw terroir of each unique vineyard and bottles soaring, nerve-rattling, bone-dry Rieslings dripping with titanic-sized explosions of flavor and minerality. Today’s 2023 “Tonscheifer” has all the critics raving, but no matter who you follow, even if it’s just us, the main takeaway is this: This is the pinnacle of dry German wine. The world has become enraptured by these finely etched, mineral-laden gems, and Dönnhoff’s releases consistently compete at the uppermost level of wine. The GGs (aka Grand Crus) now fetch relatively steep prices, as they should, but “Tonscheifer” is the sneaky great value in the Dönnhoff line-up. Many of you know this already and I’m sure are loading up, but read on for more info if you need it. Happy Riesling Day!
Some 250 years ago, the Dönnhoff family arrived in the Nahe and established a farm where they tended livestock, vegetables, and grapes. Hermann Dönnhoff (grandfather of Helmut) officially launched the estate in the 1920s, and Helmut took the reins in 1966. At this time, they only had four hectares of vines—but after their extraneous farmland was sold off in 1971, Helmut began focusing on wine. With more than 45 vintages under his belt, Helmut, and now his son, Cornelius, have created something grand out of nothing.
The Nahe is a small but extraordinarily geologically diverse region that sits along the Nahe river, between the more famous Mosel and Rheingau regions. That soil diversity and the micro-climates of topography allow the Dönnhoffs to make a stunning range of different wines. “Tonscheifer” is sourced from the Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) vineyard of Leistenberg, just across the river from Brücke and Hermanshöhle, two esteemed sites for Dönnhoff’s top-tier wines. Leistenberg is a southeast-facing slope—the highest peak in the Nahe—with steep inclines that allow for great drainage. Vines range from 15-60 years of age and roots are buried into weathered slate and clay.
All vineyards are Certified Sustainable and grapes are harvested by hand. In the winery, a natural fermentation and a brief aging regimen is conducted in a combination of stainless steel and large neutral oak barrels known as stückfass. These whopping 1000-liter barrels have incredibly thick staves that rest outside 7-12 years for “proper seasoning” before being put into rotation. Needless to say, the oak is neutral.
The 2023“Tonschiefer” trocken (dry) is all about slate, slate, slate! It comes in fierce fashion, touching every taste bud and bringing with it heaps of candied lime peel, citrus blossoms, fleshy white peach, Granny Smith apple peels, perfumed acacia, just-picked honeysuckle, and the subtlest touch of petrol. On the palate, savory qualities are only further enhanced by the dryness of this Riesling. Cleansing, supple, and vibrantly energetic all at once, “Tonschiefer” is a masterclass on how to craft a top expression of dry Riesling from a Grand Cru site. Serve it crisp and cool in an all-purpose glass next to an appetizer of crab cakes or oysters on the half-shell and you’ll find yourself in a very happy place indeed!
