Most domaines in Saumur-Champigny, just west of Chinon, are humble family affairs turning out easy-drinking Cab Franc. Domaine des Closiers is something entirely different: an estate founded from the start with the goal of making wine to compete with the best of France. It was founded by Anatole de la Brosse, a business consultant who’d actually originally intended to go into winemaking. He got his oenology degree but wound up going a different path for decades, harboring all the while a dream of producing great wine someday. In 2018, he got his chance.

Domaine des Closiers was a historic estate at the heart of the Saumur-Champigny appellation, but its viticulture and winemaking had been a bit middling for decades. Anatole changed that as soon as he took over. He immediately converted the domaine’s 15 hectares to organic and biodynamic farming. And he brought in not one but two living Loire legends, Michel Chevré of Domaine de L’Ecotard, and the aforementioned Nady Foucault. Michel is the biodynamics guru, and Nady is responsible for having made the most lauded (and expensive) Cabernet Franc in the world at Clos Rougeard. The three men’s knowhow and ambition comes through loud and clear in today’s wine.

Why You’ll Love It

• Most of Saumur-Champigny is fairly flat, with only one or two distinctive vineyards. But Domaine des Closiers holdings, located in the village of Parnay, are on uniquely steep slopes. The resulting wines have an additional layer of lift and grace thanks to better drainage and poorer topsoil.

• This is totally pure, unadulterated Saumur-Champigny. Fermentations are all spontaneous, macerations last up to a month, and the wine ages in stainless steel.

• The nose is glorious: picture Chambolle-esque red fruits like pomegranate and cherry pit married to rose petals, raspberry, cracked pepper, cedar, turned earth and tobacco. It’s beautiful stuff, pointillist and detailed in a way not much Cab Franc is.

• On the palate, “Les Closiers” hums with energy, medium-full in body with brisk acidity and very supple tannins. It leans into the red fruit profile, and while it’s juicy enough to drink on its own, this will really shine either at the table or with a little more time in your cellar.

How To Enjoy It

• It might cut against conventional logic because it’s Cabernet Franc we’re talking about, but don’t be afraid to bust out the Burgundy bowls here!

• Serve slightly cool, around 65 degrees. Keep it simple with some rillettes and baguette, or this would be incredible next to some duck breast rubbed with warm spices.

• Succulent and vibrant right now, gaining more complexity with an hour of air, we suspect this will be one of those wines that ages far longer than it “should.” Don’t be surprised if it’s delicious in fifteen years, just be sure to grab enough to find out.