Roland Velich has become an internationally recognized wine celebrity for his work with old-vine Blaufränkisch in Austria’s Burgenland DAC.  His assortment of reds, including several single-vineyard bottlings of the variety, are widely considered to be the Gold Standard in the zone.  Sommeliers are all about benchmarks, and as we continue to explore not just Burgenland Blaufränkisch but the wider world of Germanic reds, we measure new discoveries against what Velich produces from his 25 hectares of vines in the villages of Neckenmarkt and Lutzmannsburg. His are reference-point wines, plain and simple.

Where It Grows:

The Burgenland appellation runs along Austria’s border with Hungary, southeast of Vienna, and is home to a diverse topography and a mix of soils, with more primary rock and slate at higher locations and dense loams in the rolling hills that extend toward the Pannonian plain (a warming influence that is important in getting the late-ripening Blaufränkisch fully mature). Moric’s organically farmed vineyards with significant (50-100 years) age, are situated primarily in the Mittelburgenland sub-region; Velich describes the soils as varied, with some limestone and slate mixed in with loam, with vine age for this entry-level bottling ranging from eight to 50 years.

How It’s Made:

Organically grown Blaufränkisch is hand-harvested and brought into the cellar to process. The wine is fermented in a mix of open-topped wooden vats and stainless steel tanks, then aged in a mix of used cooperage of various sizes for about a year.  Bottled without fining and filtration and with only a minimal sulfur addition, the wine is beautifully pure and soil-expressive, with terrific freshness.

What It Tastes Like:

Inky in the glass—a deep ruby leaning to purple/black, reminiscent of Northern Rhône Syrah. The nose also hints at Northern Rhône, with aromas of blackberry, pomegranate, grilled herbs, violets, and licorice, but also veers into Cru Beaujolais territory. Because of its appearance, you’ll be expecting a “big” wine, but while the fruit is dark, even black, it is presented with great freshness and lift. Its acidity, warm spice, and modest alcohol make it a great companion to American style BBQ!