We often get asked what other regions of Spain are worth checking out and even collecting beyond the well-known standards of Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and Priorat. Answer: old-vine, single-vineyard Mencía from Bierzo, which is in the most northwestern part of Castilla y León. Visionary winemaker, Raúl Pérez has single-handedly put Bierzo on the international stage, and his nephew, César Márquez is following suit with Mencía blends that will leave you speechless. 

César Marquez Pérez grew up learning alongside his rock-star uncle, Raul Pérez. Their extended family, of course, has been a leading light in the Bierzo DO since they founded the iconic Castro Ventosa winery in 1792. César is among the front line of Spanish winemakers who are determined to reconnect with this ancient land and vines through organic farming, site-specificity, and minimal cellar intervention. 

We’re fortunate enough to have access to more of César’s three high-scoring uber-small single-site 2022s that showcase the mineral depth and elegance of the Mencía grape. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a small product organically grown old-vine blend for $55 with the press to boot.

The "Rapolao", "Sufreiral" and "Pérez Pico Ferreira" all contain 85% Mencía, 10% Alicante Bouschet and a mix of white varietals. The native Mencía grape has a genetic lineage to Loire Valley Cabernet Franc which you will detect a savory herbal note on the nose. Their textures are more in line with cru Red Burgundy meets the mineral and meaty depth of a Syrah from the Northern Rhone Valley. The central theme with these site-specific wines is notes of saturated black and blue fruit soaked in savory herbs, violets, graphite, and pulverized stones. While accessibly gorgeous after an hour's decant, these wines will age gracefully for another decade.

•  Blend: 85% Mencia, 10% Alicante Bouschet, 5% White grapes, and others (Old field blend) 

• .2 Hectares of a 3 hectare single-vineyard site called El Rapolao in the village of Valtuille at 540 meters. Clay soils are rich in organic matter. Due to the orientation and also a pine forest that shades part of the vineyard, this is one of the coolest sites in Valtuille. 

• Organically farmed fruit off of 80 to 120-year-old vines. Only 866 bottles were produced. 

96 Points, Wine Advocate:

“ … elegant, floral and nuanced nose … balanced and elegant profile, with lots of finesse, and it's very harmonious, floral and perfumed. It has a serious mouthfeel that is nicely textured, with very fine tannins.”