Now that you’ve heard the lowdown on one of the most overlooked and undervalued estates in Burgundy–Jérôme Chezeaux–it’s time to introduce you to his most surprising, and tiniest production gem. Surprising? Yes, even one of the world’s most mapped and written about wine regions there are still surprises. We all know that “Bourgogne Blanc” means it’s a wine made in Burgundy from 100% Chardonnay right? Wrong, at least in this case. Chezeaux’s grandfather planted a small parcel to Pinot Blanc over 70 years ago, and it is that extremely rare (in these parts) grape that comprises 75% of today’s bonus discovery. You still get all the classic, limestone minerality of top white Burgundies, but with added complexities of dried flowers and hints of exotic fruit. It’s fascinating and delicious, and a must try for any and all Francophile wine lovers. But don’t delay, Chezeaux makes just one or two barrels and we have only a couple cases!
The grapes that are integral to various wine regions in France, are generally determined down to the percentage point by the local appellation controlée have been codified into law following centuries of tradition. So, everyone knows that “Burgundy” means Pinot Noir for red and Chardonnay for white, with some small amounts of Gamay and Aligoté allowed too. However, if you could go back a thousand years the grapes here would be much more varied and diverse. The entire Pinot “family” has always been a part of the region, but in the past several centuries Pinot Noir became the dominant sibling, yet even in the 1930s when the AOC laws were made official there was still enough Pinot Blanc (and Auxerrois, and Gris) to allow it into some appellation wines. If that had not been the case, it is unlikely that Jérôme Chezeaux’s grandfather would have planted it at all.
Jérome’s estate has its roots in the century-old domaine started by Julien Missery. He took over following his father’s untimely death in 1993, and immediately began working to bottle more and more of their production (as opposed to selling it to the local negociants). Overall, the family farms 12 hectares of vineyards across several villages, including their home base of Prémeaux, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Vougeot and Vosne Romanée, employing the ‘lutte raisonnée’ (“reasoned fight”) approach—organic practices are followed except in dire emergencies. Chezeaux’s wines are fermented on indigenous yeasts and most are aged 18-24 months in French oak barriques of various ages (all used for the Bourgogne Blanc) a relatively long élevage that lends a sense of well-knit ‘completeness’ to his new releases.
The parcel of 70 plus year old Pinot Blanc vines is located very close to the winery, and that fruit is then blended with a small amount of old vines Chardonnay from a single parcel in Prémeaux, just below the famed “Clos de la Marechale.” The old vines add additional weight and complexity, but also limit yields dramatically, which is why only a couple barrels are usually produced each vintage. Serve cool (not ice cold!) in Burgundy stems and you’ll get some familiar notes of yellow apple and toasted almond, but the Pinot Blanc shines through with more exotic notes of white peach, key lime, and dried flowers. The texture is medium-full but the richness is balanced perfectly by bright acidity and a saline, mineral finish. I think it’s a natural pairing for all of those buttery, baking spice laden dishes that the holidays bring, but it is just as good with some fresh cracked crab legs. Either way you go, don’t wait to pounce, we have very limited amounts!
