A True Nector of the Gods ….
The 2019 Bodrog Borműhely (“BOR‑drog BOR‑mew‑hay”) Tokaji Aszú “6 Puttonyos” is one of those freak‑of‑nature sweet wines that only Hungary’s Tokaj region can produce. With residual sugar soaring well beyond even legendary Sauternes benchmarks—Château d’Yquem’s monumental 1945 weighed in at 164 g/L—this vintage pushes roughly 55 g/L higher, yet remains astonishingly fresh and lifted. That paradox is rooted in Tokaj’s native grapes, Furmint and Hárslevelű, which ripen later, develop thicker skins, and accumulate more sugar than Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon ever can. Add Bodrog’s meticulous berry‑by‑berry selection, short maceration on a 7–8% fermenting base wine, and a stabilizing splash of Fordítás, a traditional secondary Aszú made by pouring fresh wine over already‑pressed Aszú berries.
Bodrog Borműhely is the passion project of János Hajduz and Krisztián Farkas, two Tokaj natives who have become quiet leaders in the region’s modern renaissance. Their philosophy is simple but radical: preserve the historic soul of Aszú while dialing up tension, precision, and drinkability. Where top Sauternes often lean into opulence, Bodrog’s wines are built on electricity—high acid, crystalline fruit, and a structure that makes them as compelling with savory dishes as they are with dessert. Only 60 bottles of this 2019 reached the U.S., and we’ve secured 36 bottles exclusively for SommSelect Members, making this one of the rarest sweet‑wine allocations of the year.
The tasting experience is nothing short of transportive. Aromas of quince paste, mango, fig, citrus blossom, and warm spice rise from the glass, followed by a palate that detonates with tropical fruit, candied citrus, crushed volcanic stone, and a savory, mouthwatering finish that lingers for over a minute. Despite its immense sweetness, the acidity is so electric that the sugar seems to levitate rather than weigh down the wine. It evolves beautifully over several days, gaining depth and nuance with each revisit.
If you love Sauternes—or if you collect Yquem—this is a must‑have counterpoint, offering equal grandeur with far more agility and gastronomic range. It’s a wine to savor now in small, chilled pours, but also one to cellar for decades as it slowly unfurls into something even more profound. With so few bottles imported, one won’t be enough. This is liquid history, bottled, and it deserves a place alongside the greatest dessert wines ever made.
Egészséged (Cheers)!
