If this morning’s “baby” Barolo got you thinking about the real deal, we have just the thing–there are traditionalist estates in the now world-famous commune of Barolo, and then there is Francesco Rinaldi. If there were an award for upholding tradition, Rinaldi would win hands down. They’ve changed almost nothing in their 150 year history, though by standing still on a moving planet they have once again come into the limelight. With increasingly warm and dry summers, the staunch classicism of Rinaldi is producing supremely balanced, elegant wines. 2017 is exhibit A: The hotter, shorter growing season led to a wine that at just six years of age is already fascinating, captivating, and sensuously fun to drink. Of course it will age like a classic Barolo too, but the opportunity to get all the goods—sweet cherries, dusty earth, crushed roses, and much more—up front is very hard to pass up.

For 150 years the iconic address of Francesco Rinaldi, in the heart of the eponymous village, has produced wines that are snapshots of terroir and history. Really, the only thing that has changed here is the addition of a basket press to replace foot trodding, and some electricity for lighting. Indeed, even who is at the helm has barely budged as Luciano Rinaldi has had that position since 1941! The spry nonagenarian is now supported by his nieces Paola and Piera, and they will likely be joined by the next generation soon enough.

The Rinaldi holdings are capped by two of Barolo’s top crus, Cannubi and Brunate. Long before it became the fashion and focus of many of the region’s top estates, they were bottling these crus separately and of course continue to do so tod