It has been awhile since we featured a Pomerol, and generally speaking there’s not a lot that comes in and out of the SommSelect doors, but that’s not for a lack of adoration; rather, it’s an issue of affordability. This tiny Right Bank region is home to some of the world’s most expensive and sought-after wines. It could be argued that Pomerol contains Bordeaux’s greatest concentration of prestige chateaux, so when we discover a small property hand-crafting wine that echoes cult classics (Le Pin, Petrus, Lafleur) without the associated price, we pounce. Of course there are options for “affordable” Pomerol around, but almost all of them are frankly way too young to enjoy. That’s why today’s stunner from Bellegrave is so special: It is affordable, pedigreed, and very much hitting its peak drinking window. 2009 was a fantastic vintage–you’ll want to grab as much as you can!
Château Bellegrave is a family-scale operation with limited vineyard holdings that have always been worked by hand. Their farming mindset is also duplicated in the winery: by letting the purity of fruit shine through nature. The resulting wine is polished and lushly textured with a resounding earth-driven finish; its profundity far exceeds the price tag (which is modest for Pomerol). Eric Asimov of the New York Times agrees, saying Château Bellegrave is absolutely worth seeking out if you’re looking for value in Pomerol. Additionally, 2009 was a historically successful vintage for the region and now with almost 15 years of bottle age, this wine is a force to be reckoned with. I’ll end with this: The chance to taste premier Pomerol that performs like its triple-digit neighbors is a rare occurrence. If you’re curious about the upper echelons of Bordeaux, this is your muse. The last time we offered this beauty was almost eight years ago, and somehow the price has only gone up a couple of dollars. This should be twice as much, but we’re not complaining.
Upon purchasing Château Bellegrave in 1951, Jean Bouldy became the first winemaking generation of his family—with Pomerol’s extremely limited vineyard real estate, wine is the only viable occupation for those that live here! A lover of terroir, Jean was a firm believer in farming naturally, so while everyone else sought convenience, he continued eschewing chemicals and farming by hand. After three decades of work, he turned the operations over to his son, Jean-Marie, in 1980. Jean-Marie still runs the estate today, with his own son, Jean-Baptiste, now next in line. The modern era of the property has seen even stricter organic regulation: Château Bellegrave completed their organic certification in 2012 and now they are eyeing biodynamics.
Jean-Marie’s vines range from 35-60 years of age and are rooted in iron-rich clay and sand soils. As mentioned, all chemicals and synthetics are strictly avoided. In 2010, they hand-harvested all 20 acres—planted to 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc (reflected in the final blend)—over the course of two weeks. Fermentation by way of indigenous yeasts lasted for three weeks in concrete and stainless steel tanks. Then, the wine aged approximately 22 months in both new (33%) and used French oak.
In the glass, 2009 Château Bellegrave reveals an opaque garnet core with modest bricking on the rim. The nose shows off a complex array of fruit, florals, and spice: red currant, dried black plum, blueberry liqueur, red and purple flowers, cacao, cigar box, damp mushroom, anise, wet rock, dried herbs, and an integrated mix of baking spices. Serious weight and concentration is visible in the glass, and thick tears confirm what you should expect on the palate: a luxurious Bordeaux brimming with immense vigor and richness. Tannins are rounded and silky, and the fresh finish magically conceals the 14.5% alcohol. At 15 years of age, Château Bellegrave is still preserving a great deal of structure. It will be beautiful to drink over the next 10+ years, but it has already started entering its prime drinking window. When consuming, I recommend a 30-45 minute decant before serving in your largest Bordeaux stems at 65 degrees. Pair next to a hearty entrecôte à la Bordelaise and you’re practically in Bordeaux. Cheers!
