Vincent Couche has led the charge in both the organic and grower Champagne movements. He was the first producer in Champagne to be certified Biodynamic in both the vineyard and cellar. His “Sensation” bottling is equal parts Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that has been naturally farmed, vinified in old French barrels, and left to mature on the lees for over two decades.
We’re talking a non-intervention passion play here! Couche picks late so that his grapes are properly ripe, no chaptalization is required and the dosage is kept to an absolute minimum. He ferments his wines with natural yeasts in large neutral barrels and then allows the malolactic fermentation to occur naturally. No pumps are to be found in the winery—everything is by gravity.
The 2002 is far from being mature. It’s poised and astoundingly energetic. The palate is brimming with high tones of honeysuckle, white peach, green apple, pineapple core, Rainier cherry, and acacia alongside crackling notes of toasted nuts and candied lemon/lime peel. Still, stay with it for a few more moments, and a savory earth and mineral show begins: wild herbs, lees, smoke, crushed white stones, button mushroom, fino sherry, cheese rind, nougat. The palate is a touch over medium-bodied and loaded with buoyant layers of acidity that highlight the wine’s beautiful citrus- and orchard-fruit flavors. It’s a dynamic sensory experience that seems to shapeshift every 15 minutes. It’s a mind-blowing wine to be enjoyed now and over the next 5-8 years.
