A few weeks ago, we featured the legendary Austrian Blaufränkisch from Roland Velich of Moric. Today, we follow him across the border into Hungary for his "Hidden Treasures" project. Based in Burgenland, Velich knows Central Europe’s best terroir predates modern borders. He set his sights on Tokaj—a region with the same historical prestige as Burgundy, anchored by some of the most mineral-dense volcanic soils on Earth. Partnering with top local vignerons, Velich targets old-vine parcels in legendary sites like Teleki and Lestár (loess over andesite bedrock) and Kővágó (shattered rhyolite tuff) to prove dry Tokaj belongs among the world's great whites.
This bottling flips expectations on their head by taking Furmint and Hárslevelű—the core of sweet Tokaji Aszú—and fermenting them bone-dry. Sourced from ancient vines planted as far back as the 1920s, this 70/30 blend pairs Furmint’s structural drive with Hárslevelű’s floral perfume. Wild-yeast fermented and aged on fine lees in neutral oak foudres and stainless steel, it eschews heavy-handed winemaking to let raw volcanic minerality shine. Expect the textural nobility of premier Meursault, cut with an exotic, alpine-fresh edge.
It pours a brilliant straw-gold, erupting with linden blossom, elderflower, dried honey, lime zest, and subtle clove. The palate delivers a broad, Burgundian texture balanced by a spine of volcanic acidity and delicate grape-skin grip. Ripe yellow apple and pear yield to a long finish marked by candied ginger, white pepper, and mouthwatering salinity. It’s the ultimate wild-card bottle to pour blind at your next dinner party—just make sure to hoard a few extra in your cellar.
Why You'll Love It
- An extraordinary dry white wine collaboration showcasing Tokaj's ancient volcanic soils.
- High natural acidity meets rich texture, featuring white peach, smoky flint, lime zest, and dried flowers.
- Unfined and unfiltered with minimal sulfur intervention for maximal varietal clarity.
- A rare chance to taste dry Tokaj at its most serious and site-driven.
How To Serve It
- Serve slightly chilled between 50°F and 54°F to emphasize its mineral depth and texture.
- Decant for 20 minutes to allow the volcanic aromatics to uncoil.
- Use all-purpose stems to channel its complex, high-toned perfume.
- Pair with roasted pork belly, pan-seared trout, or rich poultry dishes.
