A stalwart producer of ‘traditional’ Rioja shows off the earthier, more soulful side of Tempranillo.

The area around the village of San Vicente, in the Rioja Alta subzone, is home to about 20 hectares of long-held family vineyards that formed the basis for the Peciña family estate. Their holdings in the zone have grown somewhat over the years, with most sites located at high altitudes on the “left” bank of the Ebro River, in soils rich in limestone.

As is typical of Peciña wines, this one is aged for much longer than is required by law: It’s a crianza that spends at least two years in (used) barrels and 18 months in bottle before it is released. Peciña also “racks” wines twice yearly while they’re in barrel, facilitating a controlled oxidation which softens tannins and enhances aromatic expression. It is 95% Tempranillo.

Estate founder Pedro Peciña was the longtime vineyard manager of the legendary La Rioja Alta estate before striking out on his own in 1992—although, to consider the style and packaging of the wines, it might seem to some like the Peciña label had been around for centuries. The estate has always prioritized much-longer-than-mandated aging regimens for its wines before they are released.

Despite its relative maturity, the wine displays a deep ruby color moving to a pink/magenta rim. It is plush yet gutsy, combining notes of black raspberry and cherry with lots of dusty earth, crushed rocks, wild herbs, tobacco, and leather. It’s a Rioja/ Tempranillo archetype, for sure, with a nice balance of polish and rusticity. Pair with grilled lamb chops and savor slowly!