Volcanic Reds: A Four-Bottle Journey
Volcanic soils impart a distinct energy, tension, and mineral drive to the wines grown upon them. This four-bottle collection explores the profound influence of volcanic terroir across four distinct regions: a Nerello Mascalese Riserva from the ancient volcanic slopes of Mount Etna, a structured and aromatic Xinomavro from the high-altitude vineyards of Naoussa, a vibrant and earthy field blend from the red marls of the Jura, and a savory, dark-fruited Xinomavro from Macedonia.
Domaine Pêcheur, Côtes du Jura Rouge "Cuvée des Trois Cépages", Jura, France
"The Jura Trinity"
An immensely joyful blend of Jura's holy trinity—Poulsard, Pinot Noir, and Trousseau—in equal measure from 35–50-year-old vines rooted in red marl slopes of Darbonnay. Christian and Patricia Pêcheur founded the domaine in 1976, staying organic and true to Jura's oxidative soul. This field-blend rouge ferments on native yeasts and rests in neutral Burgundian barrels, capturing the region's bright tension and earthy pulse without fining or filtering. The 2024 growing season delivered vibrant acidity and pure fruit, making this an early-drinking standout: tactile cherry and raspberry laced with underbrush, spice, and mineral drive.
Pair with: Poultry, charcuterie, or mild mountain cheeses.
Kappa Winery, Kokkymelo Xinomavro, Imanthia, Greece
"The Modern Classic"
Kappa Winery is part of the new wave reshaping Naoussa—Greece's historic homeland of Xinomavro—by focusing on high-altitude vineyards, lower yields, and precision-driven winemaking that highlights purity over power. Their flagship wine, "Kokkymelo," comes from a single high-elevation vineyard in the Fytia sector—one of Naoussa's coolest, most aromatic zones. The 2022 showcases the grape's dual nature: it carries Naoussa's traditional backbone of fine, firm tannins, but tempers it with juicy red and black fruit, spice, and a freshness that marks the best modern expressions.
Pair with: Roasted meats, tomato-based dishes, mushrooms, or aged cheeses.
Kir-Yianni, Xinomavro "Ramnista" Single Vineyard, Naoussa, Greece
"The Benchmark"
Kir-Yianni was founded in 1997 by Yiannis Boutaris, one of the leading figures in the Greek wine industry, and is now run by his son Stellios. The "Ramnista" is sourced from a single vineyard block within the estate, planted on clay-loam soils over limestone. It is a benchmark expression of Xinomavro, offering a complex bouquet of dried tomato, olive paste, dark cherry, and sweet spices. The palate is structured and firm, with high acidity and robust tannins that promise excellent aging potential, while maintaining a core of vibrant fruit.
Pair with: Lamb chops, hearty stews, or aged yellow cheeses.
Tenuta Fessina, "Il Musmeci" Etna Rosso Riserva, Sicily, Italy
"The Volcano's Voice"
The late Silvia Maestrelli was a pioneer of Etna winegrowing, cultivating ancient vines deeply rooted in the black volcanic soil of Rovittello on the northeastern slopes of Mount Etna. Named for the original owners of the land, the Musmeci vineyard yields a Nerello Mascalese of remarkable depth and finesse. The 2016 Riserva has had a decade to knit together, and it shows: vibrant strawberry and marasca cherry fruit, penetrating volcanic minerality, sweet spices, rose petals, and a silky, round palate driven by pronounced, vivid acidity. This is Etna at its most compelling — elegant, haunting, and unlike anything else in the world of wine.
Pair with: Roasted lamb, wild mushroom risotto, or pasta alla Norma.
