Forget the varietal tropes of simple whites; this is a masterstroke of biodynamic viticulture from the legendary Domaine Albert Mann. Their 2023 Gewürztraminer Grand Cru "Furstentum" Vieilles Vignes is a bottle of pure liquid exotica that balances 50-year-old vine concentration with "surgically precise" limestone acidity. While the grape is often overlooked in favor of Riesling, this Grand Cru—crafted by a family practicing biodynamics since 1997—stands as one of France's most significant white wines. Frankly, you won't find a Grand Cru vineyard in any French appellation for this price; it offers the structural rigour of Grand Cru Burgundy at a mere fraction of the cost.

The "Furstentum" vineyard is a dramatic, south-facing steep face of calcareous pebbles—a thermal sun-trap of singular intensity. The Barthelmé family has mastered the paradox of this site, managing a lush 23 g/l of residual sugar with electrifying acidity so the wine never feels heavy. At 13.5% ABV, the palate is a high-definition experience of crushed citrus, ripe pluot, and star anise, all scrubbed clean by a persistent, zesty finish and distinct "chalky" minerality.

Critics have confirmed this vintage as a historic achievement for the estate. James Suckling awarded a monumental 98 Points, calling it a "masterpiece" with a drive that is "off the scale." Vinous Media followed with 96 Points, highlighting the unique massale selection that trades common lychee notes for sophisticated, fragrant complexity. For the serious enthusiast, this is a vibrant, high-definition benchmark for the serious collector. For the pairing obsessive, it is a world-class partner for everything from classic Foie Gras preparations to highly seasoned Asian pork dishes.

Santé !

Critical Acclaim:

98 points, James Suckling: 

• “Still extremely young, but it’s not difficult to see that this medium- to full-bodied gewurz has incredible concentration and great balance. So succulent, yet such amazing chalky minerality. The drive in the compact and focused finish is off the scale. This fermented very long, so was late-bottled. Try to be patient for this masterpiece from an unfashionable grape. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.”

96 Points, Vinous Media:

• “The 2023 Gewurztraminer Furstentum Grand Cru immediately charms with crushed citrus foliage that is fragrant, citrus-scented and bright. This comes down to Albert Mann's own massal selection, which eschews rose and lychee notes. With more air, the wine shows a touch of peach. The palate is absolutely juicy with Reine Claude plum, wonderfully kissed with gentle fruit sweetness of 23 grams per liter and edged with zestiness. The finish rings with zest and puts a very different spin on Gewurztraminer. (Off-dry)"