Maria Hick is one of those under-the-radar Austrian producers who does everything right. Based in Oberarnsdorf, in the western part of the Wachau, the estate is a small family operation with roots going back centuries, now run by Maria Hick and her husband Manfred Eder-Hick. Their vineyards are farmed organically with a practical, no-frills approach: composting, no herbicides or insecticides, feromonal pest control, and minimal sulfur in the cellar. The result is a house style that feels pure, precise, and unmistakably Wachau, but without excess or ornament.

The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd “Glauberkreuz” comes from the highest and coolest part of the Hick estate, a site that naturally reins in Grüner’s richness and pushes the wine toward tension, mineral drive, and lift. In the Wachau’s Smaragd category, you’re looking at the region’s most complete and serious dry wines, and this bottling fits that mold: layered, ripe, and structured, but still sharply focused. Glauberkreuz is one of those sites that gives Grüner both density and energy, with the kind of spice, stone fruit, and salty cut that makes the grape so compelling when it’s in the right hands.

Why You’ll Love It

• It shows Grüner Veltliner at its most complete: ripe orchard fruit, peppery spice, mineral grip, and real depth.

• The Glauberkreuz site gives the wine extra tension and cool-climate precision, keeping it focused rather than heavy.

• Maria Hick’s organic farming and minimal-intervention cellar work let the vineyard character come through cleanly.

How To Serve It

• Serve well chilled, around 48–52°F, to keep the wine’s shape and freshness intact.

• Use a white Burgundy glass if possible; it helps the wine open up and show its layered texture.

• Pair it with roast chicken, pork schnitzel, root vegetables, or salty, savory dishes that love Grüner’s spice and acidity.