We never tire of Riesling. It’s such a nuanced grape that always has something new to offer and today’s is such a perfect example of it in its most invigoratingly dry (trocken) and vivid form. Coming from a single hillside in Germany’s famed Rheinhessen, Schneider’s vibrantly textured “Vom Rotliegenden” is refreshingly nervy with plenty of mouthwatering citrus tinged with subtle tropical fruits. But it’s the crystalline acidity and unique slate minerality pulsing through this energetic Riesling that had us absolutely fixated—it doesn’t get more terroir-transparent than this!
“Vom Rotliegenden” on the label of today’s wine does not indicate the vineyard site, but the soil in which the grapes are grown—it means, literally, “from Rotliegend,” a weathered, fragmented red slate beneath red clay soil found on a single Rheinhessen hillside known as the Roter Hang. This steep slope that leads down to the Rhine River is home to the “Hipping” vineyard, an outstanding site within the town of Nierstein prized for its perfect, east-facing sun exposure and protection from the wind.
The Schneider family is known for classic, traditional German winemaking, which makes a lot of sense given their history: Now in the ninth generation of family leadership, they can trace their wine heritage straight back to a deal with Napoléon Bonaparte. In the late 18th century, Napoléon was making his way up the Rhine, on an extravagant tour of the charming towns sprinkled along the river. To fund this indulgence, he sold off a number of his inherited properties along the way. When he reached the town of Nierstein and offered up his land there for sale, Kaspar Schneider acquired several vineyards, and the winery was founded in 1806. Today, that land forms the heart of the family’s holdings. For 40 years, Albrecht Schneider ran the show at the winery; he’s still around today, but in 2012 he handed the reins to his daughter, Ursula, and her husband, Steffen Müller.
The farming and winemaking have remained consistent over time: the Schneiders use sustainable methods in the vineyard and harvest by hand; fermentation takes place in stainless steel; and wines age in old wooden barrels that line the underground cellar.
This pale, straw yellow Riesling is a wine for nearly any occasion. The aromatics leap out of the glass, vibrant and mineral-driven with bright citrus and restrained tropical fruit notes. Delicate notes of stone fruit, green apple, and subtle herbal nuance add interest and complexity to this well-structured, crisp wine.
