Volcanic Reds: A Four-Bottle Journey

Volcanic soils impart a distinct energy, tension, and mineral drive to the wines grown upon them. This four-bottle collection explores that influence across four true volcanic terroirs: two contrasting expressions of Xinomavro from the high-altitude vineyards of Naoussa, a wild Atlantic red from the volcanic cliffs of Tenerife, and a powerhouse Cabernet Sauvignon from one of California's most storied volcanic-soil vineyards.

Kappa Winery, Kokkymelo Xinomavro, Naoussa, Greece

"The Modern Classic"

Kappa Winery is part of the new wave reshaping Naoussa — Greece's historic homeland of Xinomavro — by focusing on high-altitude vineyards, lower yields, and precision-driven winemaking that highlights purity over power. Their flagship "Kokkymelo" comes from a single high-elevation vineyard in the Fytia sector, one of Naoussa's coolest, most aromatic zones. The 2022 shows the grape's dual nature: Naoussa's traditional backbone of fine, firm tannins, tempered by juicy red and black fruit, spice, and freshness.

Pair with: Roasted meats, tomato-based dishes, mushrooms, or aged cheeses.

Kir-Yianni, Xinomavro "Ramnista" Single Vineyard, Naoussa, Greece

"The Benchmark"

Kir-Yianni was founded in 1997 by Yiannis Boutaris, one of the leading figures in the Greek wine industry, and is now run by his son Stellios. "Ramnista" is sourced from a single vineyard block planted on clay-loam soils over limestone — a benchmark expression of Xinomavro, with a complex bouquet of dried tomato, olive paste, dark cherry, and sweet spices. Structured and firm, with high acidity and robust tannins that promise real aging potential alongside a core of vibrant fruit.

Pair with: Lamb chops, hearty stews, or aged yellow cheeses.

Envínate, "Táganan" Tinto, Tenerife, Canary Islands

"The Atlantic Outpost"

Perched on the rugged cliffs of Tenerife, where ancient vines cling to volcanic rock just above the crashing Atlantic, this field blend of 50- to 100-year-old, un-grafted Listán Negro and rare native grapes captures raw ocean salinity and smoky volcanic punch in a single sniff. Founded by a "gang of four" who met in winemaking school, Envínate farms entirely by hand, foot-treads the fruit, and ferments with wild yeasts in old barrels and concrete. The Wine Advocate gave the 2022 a stellar 94+ points, and a few years of bottle age have let its bright, primary energy settle into a savory, mouthwatering groove where wild berry fruit locks into real mineral crunch.

Pair with: Grilled octopus, wood-fired vegetables, or salty aged cheeses.

Far Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon "Monte Rosso Vineyard", Sonoma

"The Powerhouse Anchor"

Named for its red volcanic soil, the historic Monte Rosso Vineyard was first planted in the 1880s high along the Mayacamas Range above Sonoma Valley, and this 2023 bottling comes from vines now over 80 years old. Winemakers Mai Errazuriz and Rodrigo Soto — the latter a former Quintessa director — earned this release a towering 97 points from Antonio Galloni (Vinous) and 96 points from James Suckling. Deep ruby in the glass, it's explosive with crushed blackberry, cassis, iron ore, and mountain sage, driving compact layers of dark fruit and graphite across powerful, finely grained tannins — built to cellar for another decade.

Pair with: Grilled ribeye, aged cheddar, or anything that can stand up to a mountain Cabernet.