Rheinhessen holds more vineyard acreage than any other German wine region, but for decades it was better known for bulk production than fine wine. Daniel Wagner changed that calculus starting in 1992, transforming his family's mixed-produce operation in the village of Siefersheim into one of Germany's most closely watched Riesling estates. Farming under full organic certification, Wagner focused his best fruit on two ancient, high-elevation vineyard sites, Höllberg and Heerkretz, both of which have since earned Grosse Lage status within the VDP classification system.

"Porphyr" draws from the finest parcels of both sites, planted on stony sand and clay laced with porphyry, a mineral-rich volcanic rock that gives the wine its name and much of its character. The grapes are hand-harvested at full ripeness, pressed, and fermented before aging in a mix of stainless steel and large traditional German oak casks, a combination that preserves purity while adding a touch of textural weight. The 2023 vintage shows the site's tropical, balanced style in fine form, with plenty to say and the structure to keep saying it for years.

Why You'll Love It

• A pale straw-gold color with a bright, youthful sheen.
• The nose is intense and layered, moving through green tropical fruit, lemongrass, and grapefruit rind into damp herbs and a distinctly stony, smoky minerality.
• The dry, medium-bodied palate is piercing and fresh yet broad, continuing to shift and reveal new facets over the course of an evening.
• A long, saline finish reflects the site's volcanic porphyry soils.
• Real cellaring potential for a dry Riesling, with the acidity and mineral backbone to age gracefully.
• An exceptional food wine that rewards a bit of patience and air.

How To Serve It

• Serve at 50-55°F, cool but not ice-cold, to let the aromatics fully express themselves.
• Give it a 30-minute decant, or spread the bottle over two days, to watch the wine keep evolving.
• Pour into an all-purpose stem that lets the wine's aromatics show without over-concentrating them.
• Pair with Dungeness crab in a Meyer lemon beurre blanc, a dish that plays beautifully off the wine's citrus and mineral core.