There are moments in Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape when old‑vine Grenache transcends sheer power and becomes something far more compelling—aromatic, lifted, almost Burgundian in its nuance—and the 2018 “Cuvée du Papet” is exactly that moment. 

Drawn from 80–110+ year‑old parcels in lieux‑dits like La Crau and Pied de Baud, this is the side of CdP that seasoned sommeliers chase: purity, finesse, and a sandy‑soiled elegance that only a handful of traditionalists still champion. 

Under the stewardship of Thierry Sabon, the estate continues its time‑honored methods—partial whole‑cluster fermentation in cement on native yeasts, aging exclusively in old, large‑format foudres, and bottling unfined and unfiltered—all of which preserve the wine’s aromatic lift and tamp down the sweetness and heat that can plague the Southern Rhône. 

The moderating effect of these ancient vines is unmistakable: the wine is full‑bodied yet focused, with a deep purple‑ruby core and soaring aromas of black and red fruits, violets, licorice, leather, wild herbs, and baking spice, framed by firm, savory tannins. James Suckling’s 97‑point review captures it perfectly, praising its opulence wrapped in savory depth and its remarkable balance of richness and refinement, while Wine Spectator (95) and Galloni (94) echo its tension, mineral clarity, and garrigue‑laced aromatics. 

A perfect window is opening right now—give it an hour of air, and it blossoms beautifully—but don’t hesitate to hold it another seven to ten years, as this reserve‑level, old‑vine Grenache delivers a purity and finesse rarely encountered in this Rhône niche.