From the Valley Floor to the Heights of Howell Mountain

Napa Valley may be one of the world's most celebrated wine regions, but its extraordinary reputation is built upon a landscape of remarkable contrasts. From the ancient volcanic deposits and gravelly soils of the valley floor to the rugged, forested mountains rising above the fog, the region encompasses an astonishing diversity of elevations, geological formations, and growing conditions. For Cabernet Sauvignon, these differences can be profound, shaping everything from aromatic expression and tannin structure to natural acidity and the way a wine develops over time. Yet in an era when Napa Cabernet is often associated with opulence, concentration, and lavish oak, the subtleties of individual vineyards can sometimes be overshadowed by the style of the winemaker. What happens when those differences are allowed to speak for themselves?

For Sara and Jonah Beer, the husband-and-wife team behind Pilcrow, that question lies at the heart of their approach to Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Inspired by the restrained elegance and remarkable longevity of Napa's legendary wines of the 1970s, the couple has dedicated itself to producing Cabernet that emphasizes vineyard character over winemaking intervention. Native yeast fermentations, restrained use of new oak, and a commitment to thoughtful farming allow the remarkable individuality of each site to emerge with extraordinary clarity. For The Napa Valley Ascent, our SommSelect team has brought together three exceptional single-vineyard Cabernets from the outstanding 2023 vintage, tracing a journey from the extraordinary geological formations of Yountville and Coombsville to the dramatic heights of Howell Mountain. Awarded 96, 97, and an extraordinary 99 points by Decanter, these wines offer a fascinating opportunity to experience three distinctive expressions of Napa Valley through the vision of a single producer. One grape. One vintage. Three remarkable vineyards. An extraordinary journey through the geography of great Cabernet Sauvignon.

2023 Pilcrow Cabernet Sauvignon “Ghost Block,” Yountville

The Valley Floor | 97 Points, Decanter

The journey begins in Yountville, where one of Napa Valley's most extraordinary vineyard sites owes its existence to a remarkable geological event. Thousands of years ago, a massive section of the Vaca Mountains reportedly broke away during seismic activity, depositing an enormous accumulation of volcanic rock and alluvial gravels onto the valley floor. Today, this unusual formation is home to Ghost Block, a vineyard whose rugged, rocky soils bear little resemblance to the fertile valley-floor landscape surrounding it. Owned by the Hoxsey family, descendants of Napa pioneer George Yount, the property is exceptionally difficult to access, and Pilcrow's allocation consists of just four rows of Cabernet Sauvignon vines, approximately 25 to 30 years old. It is an extraordinarily small parcel with a geological identity entirely its own.

Despite its valley-floor location, Ghost Block possesses a distinctive combination of concentration and freshness. Cooling marine influences from San Pablo Bay temper the growing season, while the rocky, well-drained soils naturally restrict vine vigor and encourage the development of small, intensely flavored berries. Sara and Jonah Beer approach the fruit with their characteristic restraint, allowing the vineyard's remarkable personality to emerge without excessive extraction or heavy-handed oak. The resulting 2023 Ghost Block delivers beautifully concentrated black and blue fruits, savory herbs, and a distinctly mineral undertone, supported by fine-grained tannins and vibrant natural acidity. There is considerable power here, but it is delivered with remarkable precision and elegance, recalling the structure and sophistication of classical Left Bank Bordeaux. Awarded 97 points by Decanter, this is a compelling introduction to Pilcrow's philosophy: a Cabernet of extraordinary character, shaped as much by the ancient rocks beneath its vines as by the fruit they produce.

2023 Pilcrow Cabernet Sauvignon “Glass Rock,” Coombsville

The Volcanic Foothills | 96 Points, Decanter

Travel south and east into Coombsville, and the landscape reveals another fascinating chapter in Napa Valley's geological history. Here, Pilcrow's Glass Rock Vineyard occupies a seven-acre, dry-farmed site distinguished by an extraordinary mosaic of silica-rich stones, including fiery red jasper, white quartz, and multicolored agate. These striking mineral formations give the vineyard its name, but the significance of the site extends well beyond its unusual geology. Glass Rock is also an exceptional example of regenerative viticulture, where no-till farming, naturally growing vineyard canopies, overwintering cattle, and dedicated wildlife corridors encourage a thriving agricultural ecosystem. Rather than attempting to control every aspect of the vineyard, the farming philosophy emphasizes working with the land and allowing its natural balance to flourish.

Coombsville's relatively cool growing conditions, combined with the vineyard's rocky soils and dry-farmed vines, produce Cabernet Sauvignon of remarkable freshness and aromatic definition. For the 2023 Glass Rock, Pilcrow relies on native yeast fermentation and minimal new oak, preserving the distinctive character of its 100% Cabernet Sauvignon fruit. The wine is particularly striking for its vibrant red-fruit expression, lifted floral aromatics, and beautifully integrated mineral tension. Notes of fresh cherry, wild berries, violet, and subtle savory herbs are carried by fine-grained tannins and an exhilarating, saline-driven acidity that gives the wine extraordinary energy and persistence. Awarded 96 points by Decanter, Glass Rock demonstrates how a thoughtful approach to farming and winemaking can reveal an entirely different side of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Where Ghost Block emphasizes concentration and savory depth, Glass Rock offers remarkable purity, precision, and an almost electric sense of freshness.

2023 Pilcrow Cabernet Sauvignon “Granite Lake,” Howell Mountain

The Mountain Summit | 99 Points, Decanter

The final ascent takes us high above the Napa Valley floor to the rugged slopes of Howell Mountain, where Cabernet Sauvignon encounters an entirely different world. Perched on a precipitous ridgetop above the fog line, Granite Lake Vineyard is one of Pilcrow's most remarkable discoveries, the result of an extensive search for exceptional, largely overlooked Cabernet Sauvignon sites. Here, approximately 20-year-old vines grow beside a rare, spring-fed mountain lake, rooted in a complex mixture of shallow decomposed granite, iron-rich volcanic soils, and pale volcanic ash known as tufa. The elevation exposes the vines to intense sunlight during the day, while dramatic nighttime temperature drops slow ripening and preserve natural acidity. Combined with the vineyard's rocky, nutrient-poor soils, these conditions produce exceptionally concentrated fruit with the structure and freshness that have made Howell Mountain one of Napa Valley's most distinguished Cabernet Sauvignon appellations.

Yet the 2023 Granite Lake is anything but a conventional expression of powerful mountain Cabernet. Rather than emphasizing sheer weight and extraction, Sara and Jonah Beer allow the vineyard's natural intensity to emerge through a more restrained approach, using native fermentations, minimal new oak, and careful handling of the fruit. The result is a wine of remarkable depth and structural precision, combining dark mountain fruit, forest-floor complexity, and a pronounced mineral character with beautifully controlled tannins and vibrant acidity. Its concentration is undeniable, but so is its elegance, delivering the muscular character of Howell Mountain without sacrificing freshness or finesse. Awarded an extraordinary 99 points by Decanter, Granite Lake represents a remarkable achievement for Pilcrow and a compelling vision of what mountain-grown Napa Cabernet Sauvignon can become. From the ancient volcanic formations of Yountville to the extraordinary heights of Howell Mountain, the journey reaches its summit with a wine that redefines the possibilities of Napa Valley Cabernet.