The Italian orange wine movement continues to captivate adventurous drinkers, but the 2022 Il Censo “Praruar” (prah-roo-AHR) stands in a league of its own as one of the most refreshing, alluring whites coming out of Sicily today. If you love the skin-contact magic of Paolo Bea, this offers a thrilling twist—crafted from 100% Catarratto, Sicily’s prized native white grape, under a direct partnership with legendary Umbrian vigneron Giampiero Bea. Orange wines gain their amber hue and unique structural grip through extended skin contact during fermentation. Yet while "Praruar" spends two to three weeks macerating on wild skins, it completely bypasses the rustic oxidation and overly extracted weight often associated with skin-contact whites, delivering a bright, incredibly versatile bridge bottling.

The backstory is pure magic for Italian wine lovers. Born from a 200-year-old historic farmstead in the remote, high-altitude interior of south-central Sicily, Il Censo is an intimate collaboration between proprietor Gaetano Gargano and Giampiero Bea. Guided by Bea’s iconic low-intervention philosophy, 12-year-old organically farmed vines planted on rugged, virgin soils undergo ambient fermentations with zero fining or filtration. The result captures all of the complexity and soul of a flagship Bea white, delivering incredible character and QPR for a fraction of the cost.

Glowingly amber-gold in the glass, the 2022 “Praruar” leads with aromas of dried apricot, orange blossom, wild herbs, and crushed Mediterranean stone. The palate strikes an extraordinary balance: rich skin-contact texture and subtle phenolic grip melt into a vibrant streak of mouthwatering citrus, ocean air salinity, and a snappy, almond-skin bitterness. Chiseled and refreshing, its lifted structure makes it a stellar partner at the table, effortlessly pairing with charcoal-grilled swordfish dressed in lemon and herbs, or savory roasted pork preparations.

Molte Grazie!