For decades, the rugged Santa Cruz Mountains have flown just under the radar compared to Sonoma and Santa Barbara. But those in the know recognize this AVA as the holy grail of California Chardonnay history, built by age-worthy giants like Mount Eden and Ridge Monte Bello. Dr. Thomas Fogarty cemented that legacy in the late ’70s, choosing precision over trends by planting roots directly into steep, fractured sandstone and slate. Today, those deep-rooting old vines (averaging 30 to 40+ years) serve as the backbone for an absolute masterpiece of an appellation blend.

The remarkably cool 2023 vintage allowed the fruit to hang lazily into November, resulting in a wine of immense class, structure, and pure energy. While we tasted our way through Fogarty’s entire single-site lineup, this cuvée stole the show for its sheer balance. Fermented with native yeasts and aged with extreme restraint in mostly neutral, 3-year air-dried French oak, the wood here isn’t used for flavor—it’s strictly a vessel to build gorgeous texture while letting the raw, rocky minerality do all the talking.

Tasting Notes: Dialed-in and laser-focused, the 2023 bursts with mouthwatering citrus, lemon curd, and a heavy core of saline, flinty minerality that slices across the palate with breathtaking tension. It possesses the texturally complete weight to floor a Burgundy purist, backended by an electric, savory finish that demands another sip. Pair this transparent mountain gem with rich seafood like caramelized black cod or fresh dungeness crab.

Critical Acclaim:

95 Points, Decanter Magazine:

“This is mostly declassified estate fruit, with a small addition of Vida Bella; it’s all clone 4 or Wente Clone, supplemented with a small amount of 95 and 96 from Vida Bella. Pretty aromatics of smoky lemon peel and zesty lemon peel. Taut and saline through the finish, it’s a shining example of Santa Cruz Chardonnay.”