Aussie Grenache: The "Zero to Hero" Revolution
Don’t sleep on Australian Grenache—the category has undergone a radical "Zero to Hero" transformation, and Thistledown is leading the charge. Founded by two Masters of Wine, Giles Cooke and Fergal Tynan, this project treats Grenache with the reverence usually reserved for Pinot Noir. Gone are the days of heavy, over-extracted "Shiraz-style" Grenache; today’s benchmark is all about aromatic lift and textural finesse. Sourced from the sandy soils of Blewitt Springs—rightfully considered the "Grand Cru" of the region—this old-vine wonder shares the same geological DNA as the legendary 100% Grenache bottlings of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. While we usually hang our hats in Old World Europe, the sheer quality of this "Down Under" showstopper is impossible to deny.
The secret to this wine’s "frisky" energy lies in the concrete. Fermented in concrete pyramids using alternating layers of whole bunches and crushed fruit, and aged in concrete eggs, it preserves vibrant red fruit and floral notes without the masking influence of heavy oak. It is, quite simply, hard to put down. In her 94-point review, Erin Larkin of Wine Advocate calls it "irresistible," noting its "fine and crunchy" texture. While fans of our previous Sands of Time offers will recognize the pedigree, The Vagabond is built for pure, high-energy drinking. It shines after a 90-minute decant, but is even more revelatory the next day, making it the perfect companion for a smoky Pork BBQ.
Finding these limited, old-vine bottlings in the U.S. retail market is a tall order. If you gravitate toward the mineral-driven Spanish Garnacha of Sierra de Gredos or the spicy power of Gigondas, this wine will leave an immediate impression. Drink a few now to experience its exuberant youth, but be sure to cellar a few for 3–5 years to see that Blewitt Springs ironstone complexity truly unfurl.
Cheers, mate!
Critical Acclaim:
94 Points, Wine Advocate:
“The 2023 The Vagabond Old Vine Grenache is bottled in lighter-weight glass than the 2022 iteration—305 grams less, to be exact, and not imported glass, either. Brilliant. This 2023 Vagabond is looking so fine and crunchy, delicate and floral, silty and a little febrile. It's attractive and great. Very young, it's still in its vivid, exuberant phase. It's super. Irresistible, in fact.” - Erin Larkin
