When temperatures soar, so do our cravings for vibrant, stony Mediterranean whites. We want those bottles that conjure up images of salty breezes and herb-laden hills with a single sip. The moment we tasted Zoinos’ Debina “Epiloges,” we were transported to the wilds of northern Greece. Chiseled, mineral, inflected with mountain brush aromatics, we knew “Epiloges” was going to be a go-to for us all season long. It’s laden with history and viticultural import, hailing from the rarely-seen Zitsa appellation, produced by literally the first winery in the region. And with its sub $30 price tag, we can pop it whenever the mood strikes with zero hesitation, reveling in its singular deliciousness. If, like us, you fall hard for Assyrtiko, Fiano, or Vermentino, you’ll find plenty to love in a bottle of Zoinos’ Debina. Go deep and get whisked away to Greece!
Say “Greek wine” to just about anyone, and it’s likely to conjure up images of coastal vineyards and white, sun-baked buildings. But in the northwest of Greece, butting up against the Albanian border, is a different side of the country. Here sits the little-seen appellation Zitsa, set among the foothills of the Pindus mountains. Vineyards sit on steep slopes of limestone-rich soil. Drastic day-night temperature swings make for ripe fruit with brilliant acidity. High elevations and south-facing vineyards mean full sun exposure combined with cooling winds. It is, in short, the perfect place to make some thrillingly chiseled white wine. Indeed, the majority of the white vineyards in Zitsa go toward sparkling production. Debina, a grape you’ll find here and practically nowhere else, is the main variety in Zitsa. For most of the region’s history, only locals consumed the wines, but thanks to the work of wineries like Zoinos, we’re finally starting to see these special bottles stateside.
Zoinos is a co-operative, meaning member farmers bring their crop to the winery and share in the profits of the wine made from the combined fruit. Typically a co-op is something to be wary of, the largest producer in a small region who puts out a middling but cheap product that’s merely acceptable. But Zoinos is no such thing. Since its founding in 1954, it’s been recognized as the most technologically advanced winery in northwestern Greece. They work with over 250 acres of organically grown indigenous grapes, and tend to an experimental vineyard that keeps old Greek varieties alive that would otherwise go extinct. Above all, in a region like Zitsa, where growers typically tend small holdings that are parts of diverse agricultural operations–rather than the grape monocultures seen in more established regions–a co-operative makes a great deal of sense. It’s a winery developed by growers for growers, and that we can enjoy Zitsa wine at all is thanks largely to Zoinos’ efforts.
The Zoinos Debina “Epiloges” is the winery’s introduction to the Debina variety. The organically-grown fruit is pressed into stainless steel. It ferments spontaneously and is then aged in stainless for six months before bottling. It’s all about seabreezy briskness and pure mineral pleasure. The nose opens with a rush of fresh-cut green apple, lemon zest, and white peach tones, pulsing alongside seaspray, pulverized chalk, and wet river rocks. There’s an undercurrent of herbaceousness not unlike the garrigue you find in some Provençal wines, hints of dusty thyme and rosemary. The palate is medium-bodied, with enough flesh to remind you you’re in the warm heart of the continent, combined with seriously refreshing zip. Crunchy, citrusy fruit and herbs continue, backed by a minutes-long mineral finish. It’s the sort of bottle that disappears far faster than you intend it to, and this time of year, that’s exactly what we need!
