There are some wines that whenever we see them out in the wild, we buy a bottle without hesitation, no questions asked. Cain’s “Cain Cuvée” is just such a wine. A quick rundown of its specs makes it pretty obvious why–this is, after all, a bottle from one of Napa’s most legendary producers, from some of the Valley’s most hallowed sites, with over a decade of age on it. And at $55, it costs a fraction of what any wine of similar esteem and pedigree would. The NV12 bottling on offer today is an especially thrilling edition of our beloved cuvée, perfectly toeing the line between old-school savor and new-school opulence. Whether you look to Napa for everyday deliciousness or for cellar centerpieces that scale the vinous heights, “Cain Cuvée” is not to be missed. One taste of NV12 and you too will never turn down the opportunity to experience it again!
Even among their famous Napa neighbors–Lokoya, Stony Hill, Spottswoode–Cain stands out as truly special. It was founded in 1980 by Jerry and Joyce Cain, in a place practically predestined to produce great wine. The Cains planted Bordeaux varieties overlooking St. Helena, on the eastern reaches of the Mayacamas mountains. At up to 2,100 feet, it’s one of the highest-elevation sites in the Valley, and one of the coolest in Napa. Sandy, sedimentary soils release nutrients slowly and contribute to low-vigor vines. Coastal winds from Sonoma buttress the vines all day. Surrounded by forest and strewn with native cover crops, Cain vineyard teems with wildlife. And though their wines can be as pricey as any cult Napa producer’s, though they’ve got all the winemaking doodads any enologist could ever ask for, Cain is really about one thing: a singular site, expertly farmed. This special piece of land makes up the core of today’s NV12.
In 2020, tragedy struck at Cain. The Glass Fire, a wildfire that swept through much of the Napa Valley, consumed a large portion of the vineyard. The vintages then in barrel at the winery were destroyed. Cain general manager Chris Howell and his team undertook the immense project of replanting tens of thousands of vines, faced with the prospect of not making any serious volume of wine for many years. Thankfully, Cain had stored a large library selection offsite, in two warehouses untouched by the wildfire. In what can be considered the only silver lining of a sad situation, Cain made the decision to share their older vintages with customers. As a result, we get to enjoy their stunning Cain Cuvée with 12+ years of age on it.
Every year, Cain releases their Cain Cuvée, a blend of two vintages and a few sites. It’s meant to be an introduction to their terroir, and a slightly earlier drinking style. The NV12 on offer today is a blend of cool, wet 2011 and ripe and luscious 2012. About 60% of it is structured and savory fruit from the home vineyard in Spring Mountain, filled out by fruit lower elevations in Napa to add some earlier-drinking charm. Merlot takes the lead at 50% of the blend, followed by 20% each of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, with a smattering of Malbec and Petit Verdot. Cain Cuvée NV12 opens with a stunning panoply of dark fruit and warm spice–blackcurrant, black-cap raspberry, cherry liqueur, dried cranberries, violets, sandalwood, cigar box, and cedar. A dusty, gravelly minerality runs through the whole thing. The palate is lush in texture, but it’s held firmly together by a through line of judicious acid and tannins that softening into sandy charm with age. In its warmth, its richness equipoised with rocky tension, this is Napa through and through. Needless to say, it’s rare to get to experience great Napa wine with this kind of age unless you’re willing to wait a decade. And that’s to say nothing of the frankly unbelievable price here. Don’t pass this opportunity up!
