“Les Regains” is a well situated, tiny little plot of vines on the southeast edge of Maranges, near the border with Santenay and also pretty close to Nathalie’s home and cellar in Chagny. The Pinot Noir grown in this true “edge” of Burgundy has a somewhat deserved reputation for rusticity, but in the hands of a talented winemaker like Ms. Richez it becomes a very charming, sensual, and deliciously earthy wine. And compared to its nearby sibling in Santenay, it is also precocious and generally ready to go without needing extra time in the cellar or a long decant. In a nutshell, this is a truly charming, old-school yet forward looking bottle of red Burgundy. Don’t miss it!
Starting from scratch, without any inherited vines or family connections, is a very tough way to get into the grape growing and winemaking business, but it is especially and incredibly difficult in Burgundy. Outrageously high land prices and centuries of family inheritances splitting and then splitting again make gaining a foothold here very challenging, and establishing your own domaine can feel like winning the lottery, but that is exactly what Nathalie Richez has accomplished. In 2011 she set up her winery and home in the village of Chagny, at the southern tip of the Côte de Beaune, bordering the Côte Chalonnaise, and slowly began acquiring micro plots of vines. Piece by piece she has built her tiny estate into 12 hectares of vines, all of which she farms without the use of chemicals, pesticides or herbicides (though she does not seek organic certification).
Nathalie’s winemaking style is traditional and transparent. She ferments with native yeasts, uses very low toast barrels, and mostly used ones, and adds small amounts of sulfur only when malolactic fermentations have finished. Everything is in the pursuit of elegant, terroir expressive wines. Her love of Burgundy and its long history of winemaking is evident in every bottle, and yet these wines also seem very of the current moment–energetic, vibrant, and gloriously unadorned.
Unlike the more structured Santenay, this gregarious bottle of Maranges is ready to impress with just a brief decanting. Serve it at cellar temperature, around 55-60 degrees, and prepare for a wallop of rich, spiced cherries, crushed raspberries, red plums, dried roses, star anise, clove, white pepper, and damp earth. The silky, medium body has a sappy texture and soft yet persistent tannins, and the finish is long, and full of earthy minerals. Paired with a classic dish of steak frites or a burger l'americain, this is the perfect Burgundy country comfort experience, elevated just the right amount by the talents of Nathalie Richez. I’ll say it again, get in on the ground floor with this exciting new estate!
